The Guide to HO Brass Steam Locomotives

Obviously, my list of importers is not complete. If you have information on an importer not currently listed, just let me know.

What Makes a High-Quality Brass Locomotive?

1. Detail quality: This is really what you are paying for in a brass locomotive. Instead of molded piping and other appliances, a brass locomotive will have wire used for piping and small brass detail parts soldered on. Really old brass locomotives (made before 1960) may not have the quality of detail of the newer brass locomotives.
2. Sprung drivers: This is a sign of a higher quality drive mechanism. I also believe that a locomotive with sprung drivers will operate better over slight variations in trackwork.
3. Closed gearbox drive: Older models sometimes used open gears on the drive axles. Look under the locomotive to see if it has higher quality enclosed gearing or older open gearing. If I buy a brass locomotive with open gearing I would not expect to pay as much as I would for one with closed gearing. I would also probably re-gear it with NWSL gearing.
4. Quality of paint: Some people prefer unpainted brass. Others prefer "factory paint". Some custom paint jobs can be better than factory paint. Some custom paint jobs will make you want to strip the locomotive and start over. Personally, I like to paint and detail locomotives so this is not a high priority for me.
5. Original box: Believe it or not, having the original box that a locomotive came in increases its value. This may not be important to everyone. However, for those of us who store their locomotives in boxes, having the original one is desirable.
6. Can motor: Every non-can motor brass locomotive that I have run still ran acceptably quiet for me. A can motor is not all that important to someone who has the ability to re-motor a locomotive. I often will replace an open-frame motor with a can motor and flywheel because it is something that I like to do. Also a can motor provides the ability to add a flywheel which is just as (of not more) important than the motor.

Where to Buy Brass Locomotives

• Caboose Hobbies
• BrassTrains
• Uncle Dave's
• Mitchell's
• North End Train Center
• Brass Locomotive Company

Akane Model Railroad Company, 1958-1964

• Rebuilding an Akane Cab Forward drive train

Other comments

• Scott Schwartz writes: I had bought a Gem (Jonan) 2-4-4-2 and later traded it for a cheaper, earlier run (1962) Akane version. I find the Akane detail superior to the Gem or the later Samhongsa. Having owned an Akane B&O EM-1 and P-7, both from the early 60's, the quality of the castings on the 2-4-4-2 is better, there is more piping, and the dimensions seem close to prototype. I suspect they used different builders, similar to PFM and other conglomerate companies.
• Forrest writes: Akane brass models were well made for operation, although a few dimension details may not be 100% accurate to allow the model to operate on tight (24" radius) curves, but these are hardly noticeable. I believe all of their models had the Open Frame Motors as they were made from the late 50's into the mid 60's, but my USRA 2-10-2 runs very quietly. For those running DCC, upgrading to a Can Motor is an easy process as the disassembly & reassembly is very straight forward. Due to the numbers produced and good (but not exceptional) level of detail, collectability value is limited. I consider them more of an operational model.
• bob corson writes: john pattons comment on his akane em1 is off the wall,no ho gauge loco ever weighed 7 pounds even if you filled every crevice with liquid mercury and having been in ho and o scale for over fifty years i dont believe akane made anything in o gauge.
• Tom White writes: I have 3 Akane Missabe M3-4 Yellowstones. The first was given to me as a birthday present in 1965, the other two I have purchased used on consignment in the past several years. The detail is not as 'fine' as other importers (Westside, PSC, PFM) but the locomotives are sturdy, handsome, and the Akane mechanisms are absolutely INDESTRUCTABLE! They are extremely smooth running--yes even with the exposed driver gears--powerful and very responsive. Two of the locomotives have their original open-frame motors, the third (and the first one I got) has had a NWSL can installed to replace the original motor, but they are wonderful runners, and extremely powerful. Probably the most powerful brass locos I have on my MR (and most of my steamers are brass). Very good locos, and considering their average age (well over 40 years old), they do what they're supposed to--haul freight and lots of it. To add to the Akanes, I also have two Southern Pacific AC-8/12 Cab Forwards, and they are the same. Remarkably well constructed, and extremely good looking. I'll respectfully disagree with your 'scale' for them. On a scale of 1-10, I have no problems placing the Akane's at about an 8, simply for their running qualities and their longevity. They may not be the most 'detailed' brass I own, but I RUN my locomotives, I don't get up close with a camera and count the rivets, LOL! Tom
• Mike Klink writes: I just bought a B&O Akane Q4b Mikado. The open frame motor, gears, wheels and linkage all run smooth and it's the nicest loco I've ever had! A few appearance details like the B&O Capitol dome herald, reverser cylinder on the engineer side, etc. are missing. I'll get them from Cal-Scale. It'll be really something to crow about. One thing for anyone who has any trouble with the drawbar dropping off the tender pin. Take two pointed nose/needle nose pliers and bend them up slightly. I had to do this with Rivarossis and BLI and 1 PCM steamer.
• Larry Hampton writes: I have had 25 brass engines for many years. Most of them are Akane or Tenshodo. They run very well and are powerful. I also have the Erie triplex by LMB. It has two motors with one in the tender. It is noisy but runs very well. The old motors in them have been very reliable over the years.
• John Patton writes: I bought an Akane B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4. This thing is a MONSTER. It will pull a house! It tips the scale at 7 pounds, 14 ounces (engine), 15.5 ounces (tender)! It is nicely detailed for the year of manufacture -- 1958. I have revised some of the more "generalized" details to the newer, more refined details of today in brass. The locomotive wasn't painted, so that was left up to someone who bought it in 1959, with a little work, refining of detail, good paint, and decals, the engine will look pristine! Outside of what details it came with, I only added brake hangers that are for the time period built. It also has completely sprung and equalized drivers and pilot and trailing truck wheels. It will run on the most imperfect track! Not that the old motor was troublesome, it wasn't by any means, a little noisy, (but my "noise" standards are quite high) I installed a new Canon Flat can motor, which runs almost silently! My next item to put into this little gem, is a sound system!

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Balboa Scale Models, San Diego, 1964-1974

• Remotoring a Balboa/KTM SP MT-4 4-8-2

Other comments

• Bob Schaefer writes: Balboa represents a kind of Golden Era of KTM brass imports, especially of Espee prototypes. Engines like the MT-3 and MT-4 had been imported previously by Max Gray, but the drive train was significantly improved for the models imported by Balboa. In addition, Balboa adopted all brass construction of these imports, whereas Max Gray used steel for the chassis and running gear. Like the prototype, the Balboa MT-3 is one of the most strikingly handsome engines ever made. In addition to an all brass construction, the Balboa KTM imports have a native brass finish, and in mint condition are quite beautiful. Westside picked up where Balboa left off, but Westside never ran the MT-3s or MT-4s again. They did do an Espee MT-5. In general, the MT-5 has some deficiencies which make it less desirable than the Balboa Espee mountains. First of all, the finish of the MT-5 is brass paint, unlike the lacquer of the Balboa pieces. The brass paint finish is essentially done to cover up sloppy soldering. Second, the detailing of the MT-5 is very basic. True, its about the same as that of the Balboa MT-3, but the detailing of the live steam pipe that runs along the top of the boiler on an MT-5 is just plain crude. The MT-5 would have been a different engine with just a couple of additional lost wax castings, especially a casting for that external steam line. Compare the castings on a Custom Brass SP P-13 to the castings on a Westside MT-5, and you'll see what I mean. Expect to pay about $325 for a Max Gray MT-3, $425 for a Balboa MT-3, and maybe $325 for a Westside MT-5.
• Tom White writes: I have three Balboa steamers, all Southern Pacific. A GS-4 4-8-4, an MT-4 4-8-2 and an ex-Boston and Maine/SP 2-8-4. All have had their motors replaced with NWSL cans, and all are very smooth and quite powerful locomotives. The MT-4 is a particularly handsome model, well balanced and beautifully detailed. My only complaint is that the SP 2-8-4 has a very strange drawbar arrangement between loco and tender--the drawbar is connected not to the loco cab, but to the trailing truck of the loco, and has caused problems with the wiring from the drawbar to the motor inside the cab. Otherwise, all 3 locomotives are very nice representatives of the prototypes and good runners. Tom
• Michael W P Ball writes: Balboa imports are very good models mainly built by Katsumi (KTM) of Japan. Even though they came with opened frame motors they ran well. When the owner of Balboa got into trouble over a contract with the Japanese they dropped him and Westside Model took over Westside imported many engines built by Katsumi.

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Challenger Imports, Ltd., Des Moines, IA, 1990-2005

Other comments

• Norm Silver writes: I have purchased three Challenger SP Ho locomotive models. All are suprb and the best runner I have ever seen is the SP-3 (4-10-2) three cylinder loco and that was out of the box. I also have a GS-4 painted in Daylight (unskirted #4439) and an AC-8. These model will not sell at cheap prices. My brother has a C-9 and C-10. Both of those are superb too.
• Anselmo writes: Three or four years ago I brought a brand new GN S-2 steam HO scale made by Samhongsa. It's a fantastic and superb model. The level of detail and the quality of every single part is simple breathtaking. I've taken some pictures of this locomotive in my layout and many people didn't notice it's a scale model. The can motor is also 1st quality. My only remark is that it is somewhat light in weight, so it slips a lot when pulling over any grade. I'm considering to open it and check how to add some weight, although I would not like to maculate such beautiful model.
• Forrest writes: I do not have any knowledge of early Challenger (CIL) models, but their later models made by Samhongsa have an incredible level of detail (even down to the bell rope showing the rope twists), ultra smooth and quiet motors / gearboxes, and magnificent factory paint jobs. Consider this line of models "collector grade" especially since Challenger has suspended their operations and Samhongsa is out of the brass model train business, making them even more desirable. Expect to pay $1200 - $1800 for these models as of 2008.

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Division Point

Web

• Division Point

Other comments

• Forrest writes: Division Point models have an incredible level of detail, smooth operating motors / gearboxes, and beautiful factory paint jobs. The Rock Island R-67a/b 4-8-4 is a magnificent model. Consider this line of models "collector grade", as usually total production runs for a model are in the 100 to 120 piece quantity, with usually several variations within that total, so a specific model may only have a 20 or 30 piece run (Ex: The Rock Island R-67b 4-8-4 had a production run of 100 total pieces, with #5003 with Booster and Coal tender being 30 of these). Another nice touch from Division Point is that they post production quantities prior to production, so a collector knows how rare of a model they are purchasing (Note: on their web site Archives section, production quantities are available for past models as well, very nice!). Expect to pay $1200 - $1800 for these models as of 2010 (new or used).

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Gem Models, 1958-1982

Other comments

• Clifford E. Carter writes: I have a New York Central #999 4-4-0. I think I bought it about 3 years ago and paid $150. It was poorly painted, (re-did that) no lettering (installed) and intermittent running (took some doing). It has an open frame motor and open gear box. Runs like a "scalded cat" and is hard pressed to pull any kind of "NMRA" weighted train
• Frank Gerschwiler writes: I have a couple of Ruby Signature Big Boys (also f/p Emerald Heirloom version)and when you consider they were made around 50 years ago I still find the level of detail and workmanship amazing - if I had to choose I would probably rate the Gem RS Big Boy ahead of my Tenshodo Signature Big Boy from about the same period. But then there are other Gem models that do not excite me so much.
• Forrest writes: Most GEM models were well made for operation and are usually good runners, although a few dimension details may not be 100% accurate to allow the model to operate on tight (24" radius) curves, but these are hardly noticeable. Earlier models had the Open Frame Motors, but Later Models had Can motors. GEM Models were usually made in large (for brass) quantities of a few hundred per model, but their Factory painted models are rare, as are their Ruby series models which were the first batch of 50 models used as "pilot" models (each of these Ruby Models are either engraved or stamped with a serial number on the driver retainer plate). Ruby models are considered "collector grade" and usually sell for $1,000+ each as of 2008.

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Glacier Park

Web

• Glacier Park Models

Other comments

• Forrest writes: Glacier Park models have an incredible level of detail, ultra smooth operating motors / gearboxes, and beautiful factory paint jobs. The P&LE A2 2-8-4 is a magnificent model. Consider this line of models "collector grade", as usually total production runs for a model are low (the P&LE A2 2-8-4 had a total production run of 110 pieces), with usually several variations within that total, so a specific model may only have a 20, 30, 40, etc. piece run (the Passenger Painted P&LE #9401 A2 2-8-4 had 20 pieces made). Expect to pay $1200 - $1800 for these models as of 2010 (new or used).

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Key Imports, Tiburon, CA, 1975-2008

Other comments

• Clifford E. Carter writes: I have two articulateds. A GN R-2 all weather cab f/p and a U.S.R.A. 2-6-6-2 painted for GN. The U.S.R.A. has a tendency to disconnect the forward steam pipe on tight curves. I think I need more "nose weight". Both run quite well.
• Ray Del Papa writes: Loved that PRR Buick T-1 4-4-4-4, the best looking model I ever owned. What could have been better, a Sharknose steam locomotive with those Buick Porthole and Coasting Drive!
• Scott Schwartz writes: The detail on these models is beyond spectacular. However, if you've ever tried to connect the telescoping steam pipes on one of their articulateds (the D&RGW L-96 in particular)you're in for an evening of total frustration. Interesting how many photos of this model have a ribbon tying the front section on so as not to move! I keep mine in a Train-Safe case so it can't undo the pipes. Once done, the model looks gorgeous!
• Forrest writes: Key Imports models have historically had smooth mechanisms and excellent detail. Also, several of their models operate well on moderate radius curves (their 4-6-2 PRR K-5 Pacific will operate on 24" radius), so operation of their models is possible on many layouts. Detail is very good, but their models are usually "light" in weight, so if you plan to operate them plan to add additional eight depending on how many cars you wish to pull. Most Key Import models command prices in the $500 - $1000 range as of 2008, very rare models can even command higher prices (such as their PRR S-1 6-4-4-6 which is $2,000+ as of 2008). Since Key Imports offered many of their models as Factory painted or in Natural Brass, if you are looking for Natural Brass models to display Key offers many prototypes to choose from. I consider most of my Key Import models as collector grade as the ones I own have appreciated over the years, and their production numbers are usually on the lower side.
• Tom White writes: I model mostly Rio Grande standard-gauge steam, and Key has imported some very fine models of Rio Grande locos. I have two M-63 4-8-4's, one M-68 4-8-4, two M-75 3-cylinder 4-8-2's and their K-59 2-8-2. All are very well detailed, smooth running and good haulers. The only minus I could give them is that they do need additional weight and balancing to improve their hauling capabilities. Other than that, they're very nice, quiet, handsome locomotives. Tom

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Max Gray Perfection Scale Models, Santa Clara, CA, 1962-1965

Web

• Max Gray History
• Max Gray O Scale Hall of Fame

Other comments

• Tom White writes: I acquired a Max Gray MT-3 (without the 'skyline casing') two years ago at a train show. Pretty remarkable detail for its age, and though the old open-frame motor is going to need replacement soon, the locomotive itself is a MONSTER! It must weight at least 7 pounds, and it will haul anything you want to put behind it. Very nicely detailed and quite handsome. And even with the old open-frame motor, it's very responsive to control. I like it a lot. It's easy for me to see how Max Gray got the fine reputation it had back in the ealier days of brass imports. Tom
• Joseph Nichols writes: I bought two or three HO Max Gray locos when they first hit the market. As I recall, they were the first HO brass locos to have brake shoes for the drivers. They ran great right out of the box. Max Gray was more famous for importing O scale locos.

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NJ Custom Brass, Korea

Other comments

• Ray Del Papa writes: If you loved PRR models you had to love NJ Custom Brass. What model did they not come out with? they even did a CC-2 0-8-8-0 as well as the Horse Car, Scenery car, the RT-624 and all those K-4's. You will never see many of these models in brass again.
• Frank Gerschwiler writes: I have a few GOM Royale models and my C and O H7a in all respects (running, build quality, accuracy and level of detail) is perhaps my favourite model and is unsurpassed by any other model in my collection. I recall the photo showing Goto San standing proudly outside his "shed", his eyesight was failing, his son was not interested in following in the footsteps of his father and so came to an end the career of one of the most outstanding model builders. If he had made jewelry his products would surely be amongst the most sought after - and amongst the most expensive. I still do not understand why GOM Royale models are not more expensive. They certainly seem excellent value for money.
• Forrest writes: NJ Custom Brass (NJCB) came out with many fine models, especially for eastern railroads such as Reading, Lehigh Valley, Western Maryland, NYC, C&O, and Erie. While NJ Custom Brass did have a "high end" collectable line known as the "Royale Series" of models, some of their other regular run models can command $900+ prices (such as the LV 4-8-4) since no one else has produced the same model as of 2010. However, most NJCB models can be purchased in the $400 - $600 range as of 2010. All of my small and mid size locomotives (WM 2-8-0, WM 2-10-0, Reading 4-6-2, Erie 2-8-4) will run on tighter curves (24" radius), and all of the ones I own are smooth runners. I consider their level of detail to be very good on their regular run models. I believe most (if not all) NJCB models were only offered in natural brass as I have yet to see one that was "factory painted".
• Scott Schwartz writes: NJCB, like PFM, were built in Korea but also, for their upscale Royale series, in Japan by GOM. I have 5 of their models on display, 4 of them Royales, so I won't comment on running characteristics. I have not seen better detailing even on modern brass, especially in the cabs, and these all came out in the late 70's, about the time that a backhead was all you could reasonably expect. Absolutely glorious! They tend to be rather sturdy, yet have bell cords, electrical conduits, and other fine details. Their C&O H-7a is a classic, as is their H-4. These are uncommon prototypes, well-built, and at a price half or a third of the newer versions. Great stuff.

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Nickel Plate Products

Other comments

• Forrest writes: Nickel Plate Products (NPP) models almost fall into two categories, those made in the 1970's and those made in the 1980's, as the level of detail, operation, and overall quality (in my opinion) are quite different. NPP also seemed to concentrate on modeling the north east and north central railroads. The 1970's models mostly had open frame motors, basic details, and were in some cases rather "fragile" as the soldering could come apart on the detail parts (I have used super glue a few times to reattach parts on my DL&W 4-8-4 and B&LE 2-10-4). However, their models from the 1980's mostly had can motors, a good to excellent amount of added detail, very good operating qualities, and have commanded some $1,000+ prices due to rarity. Their Reading 2-8-2, Reading 2-10-2, and DL&W 4-6-2 are excellent examples of their quality, as these models run smoothly and will operate on tighter (24" radius) curves. Furthermore, these models are rather rare. While most NPP models from the 1970's are usually priced at $300-$500 in 2009, their models from the 1980's can range anywhere from $600 (WM 4-8-4) to $1400 (Reading 2-10-2 w/twin sand domes) in 2009.

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Overland Models, Inc. Muncie, IN, current

Other comments

• Forrest writes: Overland Models (OMI) have historically had smooth mechanisms and excellent detail, at least the ones manufactured by Ajin that I am familiar with. Also, several of their models operate well on moderate radius curves (their CNJ 2-8-2 mikado will operate on 24" radius), so operation of their models is possible on many layouts. Most Overland Models command prices in the $500 - $1000 range as of 2008, very rare models can even command higher prices such as their Milwaukee Road 4-6-4 Hiawathas ($1,500+ as of 2008). Since Overland offered many of their models Factory Painted or in Natural Brass, if you are looking for Natural Brass models to display Overland offers many prototypes to choose from. With limited production numbers I usually consider most (but not all) Overland Models collector grade, as Overland usually made several variations of a particular model.
• Joseph Nichols writes: I bought one of the early HO Overland brass models, which was an Atlantic Coast Line R-1 4-8-4. It was a beautiful model but the mechanism was terrible. The gears had very tiny teeth, to make it run quiter I suppose. After about an hour the teeth wore off. Overland sent me at least 3 or 4 new gears with the same results. I put in a new North West Short Line gear box and it is till running without a problem. There were many other problems. There are some cooling pipes along the right side on the front 8-wheel tender truck. These were soldered too close in and wedged against the tender side frames so there was no swiveling at all for the front tender truck. But after I had corrected all the mechanical problems it has been a great locomotive and a joy to run. And it still runs flawlessly. Later Overland models I have bought I have been very pleased with. They make some great models.

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Pacific Fast Mail, Edmonds, WA, 1954-today

Other comments

• Bill Garry writes: I have been collecting and operating PFM engines for years. They are sturdily built, have reasonable details, and represent a broad spectrum of prototypes. The United Crowns are my personal favorites, but even some of the standard issues - such as the later Hi-Grade runs - are beautifully detailed. Excellent values for the money.
• Norm Silver writes: I am the proud owner of two (2) PFM Fujiyama SP GS-1 Crown steam locomotives. Later I purchsed a D&RGW M-64 by built by Toby and then a GN R-1. All are in new condition and are great representatives of what great model craftsmen could produce back in the '60's and '70's. Don Drew insisted on quality and he got it. So did I as a discriminating HO modeler.
• D. R. MacDougall writes: If you look at the back cover of any MR or RMC magazine of the latter half of the 1960s to well into the 80s (maybe more but I dropped off the scene for some years about then), you'll notice that PFM/United had another address in Vancouver Canada. I grew up within walking distance of that store. Van Hobbies was THE place for serious modelers in those days. Ron & Phil always had some new jewels on the shelves at the rear of the store. I had to be contented with the surplus custom Cal-Scale fittings they had from this run or that, but there were always members of the local NMRA in discussing various virtues/faults of the various runs. I was told that the Japanese models were contracted to jewelry manufacturers where the brass parts were cut out by men, and soldered together by teenage girls due to their superior hand-eye skills. It was widely believed that the shared orders with the Edmonds store that the US got the cream of the runs, because of the greater competition in the US market. When the cost of Japanese imports went off the charts they started dealing with Samhongsa.I have a few of these Korean engines and upon recently dusting off my treasures and getting back into the hobby, have found that all have motor couplings which have failed (14guage electrical wire insulation works ok as a replacement if soft enough). The first run of Tenshodo H1e Royal Hudsons had a number of errors, most of which were addressed on the next Samhongsa run, but the cylinders were wrong on the Korean offering, and very challenging to paint the interior cab details. I have one of these, and had ample opportunity to refer to the prototype and blueprints as I was the first hourly employee hired to restore it. I can't speak for the following runs as I have no experience with them.
• Scott Schwartz writes: I have a number of articulateds by PFM including a rare unpainted GN R-2 by Tenshodo. It is a real shame that Tenshodo didn't put cab interiors in until quite late, if at all, even on Crowns. The models are otherwise cutting edge for their time and have a sturdiness not often seen in modern better-detailed Korean imports. Comparing my old L-131 with a PSC import costing several times more, the PFM engine holds its own!
• Mike Toney writes: I own 2 early run PFM's and one mid run PFM. The two early models are a NKP Berkshire and a Southern PS4. They both run smooth with just the slightest motor noise from their original Pittman motors. The Berkshire needs 22" radius min, she wont even think about 18" curves. The PS4 Pacific will handle the tighter curves if the track work is clean. My mid run PFM is another PS4 Pacific with brake shoes, the early runs lacked the brake shoes. I paid $100 for the Berkshire with its box as it needed some minor TLC, $175 for the early run Southern PS4 Pacific with its box, and I swapped some Marklin stuff for the later run PS4 that is painted for the Crescent Limited. He wanted $200 for the model without the original box, I had $50 invested in the stuff I swapped for it. I can highly recommend PFM/United models for modelers that wish to operate the engines. Even with thier original Pittman motors, the Berkshire pulling 10 heavy passenger coaches draws between 1/2 and 3/4 amp on straight DC power, amps vary depending on the terrian she is traveling. PFM models have a heft and more substantial feel to them over other imports of the same time frame. Most all will run, even after years of storage and with only some basic maintance. The early run PS4 was new in the box, had absolutly no wheel wear. Using a 9vt battery I tested to see it would run, it did. A full relube ect was done prior to layout use. Its a shame PFM didnt survive to current day.
• Forrest writes: Pacific Fast Mail (PFM) offered very reliable models with very good detail and operating qualities. Early models had Open Frame Motors, later models had Can motors and an exceptional level of detail (such as their C&O J3a 4-8-4 done in 1981). Many PFM models can operate on tighter radius curves (their RF&P 4-8-4 will operate on a 24" radius). Many PFM models were made in large (for brass) production runs of several hundred models per prototype, or in some cases several thousands. This makes many PFM models usually available and at reasonable prices (usually $250 - $750 in 2008). PFM did though have a "collector grade" product line, known as PFM "Crown" models (usually noted on the box, or with a serial number on the model itself). While some Crown models did have several hundred made, other Crown models had quantities of 100 or less making them collectable. Expect to pay $750+ for a crown model, with very rare Crown models (P&LE 2-8-4, N&W 4-8-4, C&NW 4-8-4, NYC 4-6-4, CB&Q 4-8-4, C&O 4-6-4) getting $1,500 - $4,000 in 2008. Two other collector grade PFM model lines are the ultra rare Hand Built models of which usually less than 15 were made (a C&O 4-6-4 Hand Built model went for $10,000 on eBay in 2008), and the Nickel Silver plated models for advertising photo purposes of which only 1 was made (no pricing available for these, but I can only assume they would fall in the "if you have to ask you cannot afford it" price level). Some PFM models were only offering as Factory painted, while others were only offered in Natural Brass.
• Tom White writes: I own five PFM models and like them a lot. Very sturdy, nicely detailed, and with a little work, very smooth runners. I have 3 PFM articulateds (two Rio Grande L-131 2-8-8-2's and one Denver and Salt Lake 2-6-6-0) and I have to admit that they have the STRANGEST reduction gearing I've ever seen on any brass loco--an exposed double-gear that probably only be replaced by a NWSL gear-tower and replacing the gear on the locomotive driving axle. This makes them fairly noisy when they run, but they are extremely smooth and powerful. If you don't mind the 'coffee-grinder' sound, they perform beautifully. My other two are a Rio Grande 4-6-2 (beautiful) and the ubiquitous Santa Fe 1950 2-8-0, which is the first brass locomotive I ever acquired in 1960. It's still a little charmer. I've replaced the original open frame motor with a NWSL can, but it still rambles around the layout with a lot of style. Tom
• Joseph Nichols writes: I agree with David Barron. Don Drew was a nice guy and ran an excellent company. For years PFM was THE brass model locomotive inporter. I bought a United NYC Niagara in 1958 and it is still running well. The center drivers were blind. That was also the case with a United SP Daylight which also is still running. I probably have 20 or so United models, all of which are sill running. The United SF 4-8-4 was one of the best models United ever produced. So was the Nickel Plate Berkshire. PFM was also the importer for Tenshoda, but I don't think I ever bought one of those models. PFM also imported some Crown locos, built by Fujiyama. Crowns were very limited productions, usually only a few built. The NP A-5 4-8-4 and the MoPac 2200 series 4-8-4 may be the finest and most beautiful HO brass model locomotives ever built, in my opinion.
• David Barron writes: Don Drew owned and operated Pacific Fast Mail until his recent death, November 2008. He was very friendly, honest, ran a first class business and always had time to share with a railroad fan. I purchased my first PFM brass locomotive in 1963, a MA & PA 2-8-0 for $34.95. Over the years I wrote to him many times and always received the part I needed or advice on how to fix something. I was fortunate enough to visit him at PFM HQ in Edmonds not more than 2 years ago. Although PFM has officially been closed and has not imported anything since the mid 1980's Don still maintained a full schedule, displays of PFM Models, books, the perminant layout, traveling layout, work shops, reference libruary, and parts. He had been an intrigal part of any brass locomotive fan for decades. He was and still is considred a friend.

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Precision Scale

Web

• Precision Scale Co.

Other comments

• Forrest writes: Precision Scale (PSC) models have historically had smooth mechanisms and excellent detail (the Western Maryland 4-8-4 and 4-6-6-4 models were extremely well done), and some models even have operating marker lights. Also, some of their smaller models operate well on moderate radius curves (my N&W 4-8-0 M2 will operate on 24" radius). Most PSC models command prices in the $600 - $1200 (used) or $1200 - $1800 range (new) as of 2010. Since PSC offered many of their models as Factory painted or in Natural Brass, if you are looking for Natural Brass models to display PSC offers many prototypes to choose from. I consider most of my PSC models as collector grade, but since some used models can be purchased for reasonable prices (NKP 2-8-4’s are in the $600 range as of 2010) they do make exceptionally detailed operator models should one plan to run them.

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Sunset Models, Campbell, CA, 1975-today

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• Clifford E. Carter writes: I only have 1, a GN F-1 PTD LT/WEA. Darn thing spun a driver, threw a rod, fried the motor and got a driver short. Re-quartered the driver, fixed the rod, new dinky motor and used super glue to fix driver short. It runs but hasn't a lot of "guts". Not bad detailing.
• Scott Schwartz writes: I think that Sunset Models attempts 2 levels of quality, (and price of course!)and this explains the divergence of ratings. I'm lucky enough to own 3 of their better models ~ a B&O 2-6-6-4, a SP AC-9, and a UP 4-12-2. These are beautifully detailed. However I've seen photos of their "Prestige Line" models, which ironically are of a lesser level of detail, but rather less expensive. You may remember earlier attempts at bringing out less costly, less detailed brass (the "Spartan Series" comes to mind) and this may be an attempt to move in the same direction, in a relatively more expensive way. I find that almost all Korean Brass models, even the most expensive ones, need some tinkering and rebending of distortions, so these models may be OK if it's your thing.
• Forrest writes: Sunset models has historically offered smooth running, reliable models with anywhere from a modest level of detail (for a brass locomotive) on their Prestige line, to a higher level of detail on their primary line (no name given to this line). Also, many of their models operate well on moderate radius curves (their CB&Q S4 4-6-4 Hudson and N&W K3 4-8-2 will operate on 24" radius), so operation of their models is possible on many layouts. All Sunset models I have came with Can Motors. Most Sunset models are a little light in weight, but usually the included boiler weight is sufficient, however other models need additional boiler weight added if you plan on pulling long trains. Some Sunset models were offered only as Factory Painted, while others were offered only in Natural Brass. Since Sunset does not have a "collectable line" in name, pricing is usually based on production runs and desirability. Expect to pay between $300 - $600 for a Sunset model, with rare models commanding $750+, and some very rare Sunset models (such as the B&O 2-6-6-4) commanding well over $1,000+ in 2008.
• Tom White writes: I have two Sunset models, both Southern Pacific prototypes. An AC-6 4-8-8-2 Cab Forward, and a 2-8-0. The 2-8-0 is incredibly smooth, beautifully detailed and a fine hauler. The AC-6 on the other hand, took a lot of work with weighting and balancing to get it to run smoothly. However it has turned into a fine-running model. However, I have had to re-solder some of the finer details on the loco--it seems to have been designed by the Mfr. as more of a 'display' model than an actual running loco--and I buy my brass to run. But aside from that, it's a very nice loco (after some major work). Tom
• David Schoedel writes: I recently received a Sunset Models 4-6-4 steamer. I would rate it at a solid 8-10. To me it seems to have a lot of detail to me. It is an exceptionally smooth runner on straight track. I could not get it to go around my 18" radius curves because it seemed to be too long. I did put a train of 8-10 cars behind it on a straight and level piece of track and it pulled it just fine. Personally, I think that buying one of Sunset's models would be a good inclusion to your locomotive roster.
• Craig Bisgeier writes: I have owned several Sunset brass locomotives. I would only rate then at 4-6 depending on the model. In my experience they aren't very well engineered, often lack fine detail and usually don't pull very well. Some are better than others.

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Tenshodo Co. Ltd., Japan, 1949-today

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• Clifford E. Carter writes: I have a pair of Tenshoda's, A GN O-8 unsprung and an S-2 FP sprung. The O-8 fried the motor, so I put a huge can in the firebox. It was called "Frankenstein" by the club members because it found all track screw-ups! Both run quietly. Neither have foam boxes, but each component is in a separate box. I have a feeling these are a bit old because there are loop & hook couplers with them!
• Frank Gerschwiler writes: I own a few Tenshodo eg ATSF 2-10-4, DMIR M3 and M4, NP Z6 , UP Signiature Big Boy (incredible for a 1959 model) and last run Big Boy, UP 3977, also models made for Fulgurex in Europe. The assembly and running quality ALWAYS seemed excellent if noisy on early models , level of detail and paint finish variable (eg I felt my Key 4-12-2 was a more detailed model than the Tenshodo model - although I would still like to get the tenshodo model! Likewise I find my PSC DMIR M3 M4 1st series models were more detailed than my Tenshodo M3/M4s) and they (PSC) had coasting drive with 3 point suspension on drivers. The Tenshodo/Fulgurex European models always seemed to have an excellent and accurate paint finish - and all my Euro Tenshodo models run well. As with Bob Schaefer despite some imperfections on certain models - overall Tenshodo remain my favourite builder. Re the foam - I would immediately throw away any original foam - even if you wrap the loco carefully in plastic I understand that the foam as it degenerates produces a gas which may well get through the plastic wrapping to react with the model surface. GET RID OF THE FOAM.
• Bob Corson writes: Over the years ive owned dozens of united and tenshodo locomotives and must admit that overall their quality was equal to any other builders. I never liked the fact that Tenshodo would make his models a little oversize so as to put full size drivers (as for instance on the up big boys), but their running quality was great as was their companion buider United.
• Bob Schaefer writes: Tenshodo was tied to PFM for many years, and many PFM crowns are Tenshodo products. They specialized in factory painted, highly detailed engines from the mid-50's forward. Tenshodo crowns like the Big Boy, the Challenger and the Cab Forward represented for many years the pinnacle of HO modeling. For me, the period from about 1972 to 1979 or so represents the golden age of Tenshodo production. During this period of time, the paint had a wonderful luster to it, that I find quite striking; however, it was also the subject of criticism by scale modelers. Around 1979 or 1980, Tenshodo went to an "eggshell" finish which I find quite disappointing. I have a 1979 NP Z-8 which has a finish somewhere between lustrous and eggshell, and a weird green-gray color for the smokebox. I am having the Z-8 repainted to provide the finish I enjoy so much. From 1982 forward, Tenshodo production dropped as the exchange rate moved in favor of Japan. They produced less and less with each run, and finally ceased all US prototype modeling in the last year or two. Collecting Tenshodo pieces has one very serious drawback--a problem with rotting foam rubber in the boxes started manifesting itself about 7-8 years ago, and now is quite pervasive. The culprit is always the center foam, which decomposes as the model sits in storage. The decomposing foam is caustic to the paint. Many, many, many Tenshodo engines have been ruined by foam damage. If you have any Tenshodo pieces, make sure you keep engine and tender wrapped in plastic, and throw away the center foam. If you are buying a Tenshodo piece, be sure to look for and rule out any foam damage. The foam damage seems pervasive especially for production years from around 1970 to 1980. This is an unfortunate association with the period of time I refer to as the golden years, 1972 to 1979. Another factor to consider when buying a Tenshodo piece is the gear train. Around 1975, Tenshodo started using quiet gears for their models. Prior to that, Tenshodo pieces tended to range from noisy to rocks-in-a-blender noisy. I have several Tenshodo engines, including a last run GN O-8 2-8-2, a last run SP AC-12 and last run GN Q-2 2-10-2.They are beautiful. I'm currently having a GN R-2 2-8-8-2 custom detailed in a glacier paint scheme. I speak frankly about some of the problems with Tenshodo engines, but they are still my favorite builder.

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Westside Model Company, Los Altos, CA, 1964-1982

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• Brandon writes: I have one Westside steam engine; a PRR #1223 D-16sb 4-4-0 by Samhongsa. I find most of the detail to be very well done and finely made, although some details (like the bell cord) seem rather heavy, and pictures of the prototype (which still exists) show that some details aren't as accurate as they could be. The tender's coal bunker is dissapointingly shallow, but a coal load can cover that up. The entire model was covered in a brass-colored coating, which had absorbed some red dye from the original foam, and it had to be painted over before the model could look good. The construction is nice and heavy, making it both durable and as powerful as a 4-4-0 can be. Mechanically, it's well engineered and runs very smoothly and quietly, but the coreless motor used was very underpowered and had to be replaced. Overall, I'd give it a 7 out of 10.
• frank gerschwiler writes: I find Westside products variable in terms of detail/build as one would expect with a company that has produced such a vast range of models from different bulders over many years. At the top end are master builders such as Nakamura (eg Rio Grande narrow gauge models) and Mizuno (eg Craftsman series NYC Hudsons). I have found the build quality of these to be flawless, level of detail excellent (as with GOM Royale). Earlier Westside models such as the 1981 Katsumi PRR Q2 (a favourite) were in their day excellent models. good detail for the time, well made, good runners, - they looked right - and in my view still represent great value for money. Today if you want the best you can buy the (slightly) better 1998 Key (Samhongsa?) Q2 but it is THREE TIMES THE PRICE.
• Ray Del Papa writes: The thing I liked about Westside is they brought in a lot of PRR steam. The Q-2, J-1, K-5, N-2, are amoung the ones I owned. They were all good runers and for their day had good detail. The Q-2 and the J-1 could also pull their weight. It was always impressive to have 25 to 35 cars behind one of these locomotives. If there was one thing I hated was a $1,000.00 locomitive sitting on the tracks spinning its wheels trying to pull a 20 cars.
• Scott Schwartz writes: I think the quality of workmanship is extremely variable on these products. I have a DM&IR M-4 which has a fantastic level of detail, some of the best on this particularly popular engine. The same goes for their GN N-3, gloriously sporting wide open windows to look into the beautifully detailed cab interior. I am a huge fan of the D&RGW L-105, an incredibly proportioned engine, and I went through 2 Westside models, rather unhappy before settling on an admittedly much more costly Key product, but with a great deal more refined detailing.
• Tom White writes: I have two Westside models, their Rio Grande L-105 4-6-6-4's. Extremely smooth running models, very powerful, and nicely detailed. I particularly like the fact that they have 'reduction' gear towers, so that even with an open-frame motor (I've replaced one of them with a NWSL can) their speed range is quite good. Very responsive locomotives, and they are HEAVY! I certainly wouldn't pose one on a plastic railroad bridge too long for photographs, LOL! Very nice locomotives. Tom
• Joseph Nichols writes: I have two Westside locos. They imported a very good model of the Union Pacific FEF-2 (UP had 3 series of Northerns and the FEF-2 was the middle series). In its day, it was a very good model, but no comparison the the super-detailed model by Overland many years later.
• David Barron writes: Dick Trusdale owned and operated Westside Model Company for decades as well. His well known model railroad, Halfhollow & Huntington sported a logo of a wine glass depicting his love of fine wine.

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