The Guide to HO Steam Locomotives

Athearn

Advantages

• The 2-8-2 is a very well running and strong locomotive with good low speed performance for prototypical speeds.
• The 2-8-2 can easily pull 30 cars up a grade.

Disadvantages

• The add on detail parts are not up to the quality of the rest of the model. The grab rail standoffs are a poor fit, but at least a lot are supplied. These should have been factory installed. Otherwise, excellent looking model, except boiler plastic is a bit shiny.
• The only draw back one reader noticed is that the LED light glows a little greenish.

Other comments

• don frigo writes: i've purchased a used 2-8-2 with the nwsl replacement gear installed and it both runs and pulls well ...appox 14-16 weighted freight cars on level track.
• Bill K. writes: Notes on Athearn's original steam engines: The 0-4-2T is based on a drawing published in Model Railroader; it's not a bad little locomotive that runs well and will pull a fair amount of cars. Expect to pay $20-$30 for one. The 0-6-0 is a USRA design. Nearly all of these suffer from a main drive gear on the axle that has cracked, resulting in an engine that won't run. The last I checked, they were selling for about $25; a good display piece since most do not run and many better models of the same engine have been released since. The Pacific was based on a Boston & Maine locomotive. It went through several drive revisions before ceasing production in 1966. Some of them run very well and the whole lower boiler and frame is cast, giving them a fair amount of weight. They also have decent detailing especially considering their era. However some of them suffer from degredation of the cast material, causing them to swell and warp. Pickup varies from tender only to tender and loco, some have plastic drivers, some plastic with metal rims. Even the main drive gear moves from the middle axle to the rear axle through the various revisions. Athearn sold the tooling to this engine, occasionally rumors surface that the current owner will produce a run of them, but so far none have turned up. Expect to pay between $50 and $100 for one in good shape that will operate. Basket cases can be had for far less.
• steven parry writes: Concerning the Athearn Genisis 4-6-6-4 challenger, it is somewhat a failure. I have an open layout and I'm using some 1970's DC controllers. That engine uses so much power that it shuts itself off and when you want an operational coupler for dubble-header operation, they only give you the parts and say "figure it out yourself because we don't want to put it on the manual" and some of the parts fall off. But, they do add a lot of detail and sound to this engine. It is very expensive.
• Richard writes: I have a previoue run Athearn FEF that has the older MRC sound and control system. I had troubles with it operating well in DC mode and sub par DCC performance compared to the Digitrax, QSI & Soundtrax systems. The model in general is very striking and the motor drive system & traction are excellent. I would like to see stronger Headlight performance and the red mars light is a nice touch but could also be brighter. Overall I really like Athearn's quality for the money and would highly consider them in my purchasing decisions. For HO steam power, I have preferred BLI and MTH as my first choice, however Athearn has improved their product to keep pace and is generally less expensive with good performance. Athearn's Big Boy uses a plastic body while I understand, BLI uses a Diecast body for heavier traction. BLI's Cab Forward is offered in both plastic and Brass versions and both are excellent. In my opinion, b oth Athearn and BLI offer great models of these engines so look at price and customer support in your consideration.
• Deidre Renee writes: Athearn have changed their decoder manufacture and now less than half of the sound options are now available. Also the small handheld radio control unit is no longer available. Now I am stuck with one Challenger that no matter what DCC system I buy it will not utilize all of the sound features either!
• American Flyer writes: I just recently purchased an HO Genesis UP 4-8-4. It is of extreme high quality. It has tremendous ability to pull. It is fast beyond belief. The sounds are mediocre. All-in-all, it's by far the best steam locomotive I own. I'd recommend this model w/o reservation.
• Andrew writes: 2-8-2 is sparsely detailed by current standards,one 2-8-2 I had suffered from the split drive gear that is fairly common,lightweight and weak puller (ten cars at the most with a lot of wheel spin).I have two of these locomotives. 4-6-6-4 by comparison is a beauty, strong puller, smooth running, the remote has roughly a six foot range (in my admittedly cluttered basement).
• Tuna writes: I have four Genesis steam locomotives - 844 FEF-3, 3958 Challenger, 4020 and 4024 Big Boys. I'm very happy with them as they look very good and work very well. The sounds available are impressive. I've had to upgrade my track to larger radius turns to handle these big locomotives.
• Christopher Smith writes: I have had nothing but good luck with the new 2-8-2. It handles the 30" radius curves and the switches admirably and I have nothing but respect for these engines. They are a bit tough to put together, but the end results are indeed worth it.
• A viewer writes: Model flanges are low, and will derail on less than perfect track work curves pulling a moderate consist. Reason is that location of tender coupling pin is too far back, and the cab swing out on a 18" curve creates a significant torque on the loco that derails the front drivers over track imperfections. Boiler weight is too small to counteract this. Solution is to relocate tender draw bar pin to the loco trailing two wheel truck frame, which effectively causes the consist pulling force to be exerted much closer to the centerline of the loco, and eliminates the twisting torque. No derailments.
• A viewer writes: I installed a Digitrax DCC using the new type of provided plug. Performance is somewhat worse at low speeds, I have not tried to program start voltages, etc yet. Also the electrical contact is now poor, as I suspect the DCC circuit is more sensitive to minor continuity disruptions. I think the decision to only provide contact at the drivers was not the best, and I am planning to add more pickup points, possibly using the tender axles ala Rivarossi and Bachmann. Still a great model for the price.
• Charles Emerson writes: I have installed Soundtraxx decoders in a number of Athearn 2-8-2s and have found no problems installing a decoder and speaker in the tender. As for the derailing problem that is not limited to 18" curves. I have 48" curves on my layout and it derails on these as well. I found that the front set of drivers jam when the spring is compressed. I tried to rectify this by polishing the bearing faces but to no avail. I solved the by installing heavier springs from NWSL. You have to drill out the the spring cups in the chassis to fit the NWSL springs. These springs are longer and heavier so they limit the travel of the wheel and the bearing doesn't jam. I haven't found mine to be noisy at low speeds, unlike Bachmann Mountains, its just that they are so light they won't pull anything worth a damn up a grade. I would venture to guess that Athearn's new pacific will pull even less.

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Web Sites

• Athearn

Bachmann

• Original Bachmann: These are low quality locomotives that are worth maybe $30 at the most. I would consider these to be toys.
• Bachmann Plus: This was Bachmann's mid-range line of locomotives. Their quality is better than the original Bachmann line but are not worth more than around $80.
• Spectrum: This series was introduced in the 1980s and is of high quality.

Advantages

Disadvantages

• Historically, the Bachmann line of steam locomotives has not been known for its workmanship. Some would argue that the serious modeler should approach these locomotives with caution.

Web Sites

• Bachmann Trains

Other comments

• neil writes: I have had some bad bachmann locos i think anything made in china is of dubious quality there can motors are cheapest they can get.i have just purchased a shay with sound just because it was half price,and only when tested in the shop.But it took four different new locos before the shop owner found one that worked i think that says it all hi hi.
• Keith writes: I sent an early Bachmann 2-8-2 Mikado back for repair, which through a side rod which could not be fixed. They sent me an email the next day and asked me if I wanted a new loco[of my choice] payed for the DCC fitted only I had a new one with 2 weeks of sending it to Bachann. I must point out that I live in Australia, had to send to US for repair. They are the only manufactures of loco's that I know of that will do that. The loco was about 15 years old,bought off Ebay USA.
• wbriley writes: recently purchased 2 Bachmann 2-8-0 consols ..inital problem with slow running / stalling out of the box. someone a B'mann told me to run them" wide open" around the layout for 20 mins. breakin...not done. Dissassembled one to check lubing..came apart ok.and added a DAB. BUT I cannot get the worm gear to "remesh" with the drive gear... It runs, stalls, and locks up..tried not to overtighen the attaching screws Hate to think they're going into a display case.. pulling power is adequate for my mid size railroad any suggestions..??
• Richard writes: The experience I have with Bachmann in general, has been with limited Ho steam and lots of On30 steam. the Spectrum HO I do have runs very smooth and has excellent detail. I have heard that the wheel wipers on some engines are delicate and problematic but the engines I have are fine performers. My On30 engines have been excellent with the only issues being with the geard Shay's having weak plastic beveled gears on the external drive shafts. Aftermarket gears are now being offered due to the extent of this issue. I have not had trouble with mine yet but I am also very cerefull in how I run my shay's and maintain them prudently. I have found Bachmann the most affordable for the quality of detail but research before you buy; They tend to be "hot and cold".
• David Colgan writes: Just purchased a 1980's/early 90's 2-10-4 Texas. Sitting in the bargain bin at my LHS. Got an IHC pacific and the 2-10-4 (both with tenders) for a trade on a brand new Athearn Pullman car. (valued at about 16$) that brings the locos to about 7-8 dollars a piece. Both run very well. If the Bachmann craps out, I can send it in and get a brand new 2-10-4 i'm sure.
• David Colgan writes: I bought the "Overland Limited" basically just for the 4-8-4 steamer that came with it, the price was right and I planned on making a little money back on top of that consigning the powerpack and rolling stock and track. The UP 4-8-4 in that set is a newer version....Like the DCC ready 4-8-4's that Bachmann standard is selling right now for around $110.00. The only thing that differs from a spectrum is the detail and lack of a flywheel, other than that the mechanism is superb. It does not have the old style of plastic sleeves joining the axles together and it doesn't pick up power through the fram anymore either. It has wipers and solid axles with the gear as one casting. Very good locomotive. It's nice to see Bachmann upgrading their standard loco's to almost spectrum quality mechanism's
• Joe A. writes: I agree that Bachmann's quality control leaves a lot to be desired, so much so that I'd expect to see reviews of each engine that range from "great" to "terrible". The Spectrum 2-8-0 is based on an Illinois Central prototype, which was a very large and modern-looking consolidation. I was happy with my two 2-8-0's until I parked one of them next to my USRA light 2-10-2. The 2-8-0 is taller and has a larger diameter smokebox! I imagine that Bachmann used the large I.C. engine as a prototype for the 2-8-0 so that they could fit a larger motor inside; but I still think this engine is at the out edge of being the right size for a 2-8-0. My 2-10-0 performs excellently, pulling 10 to 12 cars on a slight (<0.25%) grade. I wonder how free-rolling the freight cars of the people who had trouble with poor pulling performance are? I tinker with/replace the wheels and trucks on my cars until they rool very smoothly. If your cars are, for example, Tyco or Model Power cars out of the box, your engine will look sick trying to pull them.
• John Bisby writes: I purchased 2 new Bachman HO 3 truck Shay's in June 09. All the plastic bevel gears were split on both units. NWSL replacement steel gears are not easy to fit to the original drive shafts. If you intend replacing the gears I suggest removing the small cradles that support the drive shafts. Also, the universal joints don't have enough lateral movement which requires some trimming of plastic inside the joint.
• Scott Johnson writes: overall rating one word (junk) fustrating and dissapointing Cant pull cant climb hesitate derail .......................
• Ian Sach writes: I had stalling problems over insulated points with my 4-6-0. Remedied the problem by tweeking the pickups & cleaning with railcleaner fluid, and then adding a very small amount of "Inox" brand lubricant to each pickup - no problems since.
• Deidre Renee writes: I took delivery of a brand new 'sick' three thruck shay. The couplings were so loose it just skipped and jumped all over the place. Bachmann replaced the loco. The replacement had a piston rod that kept falling out so they sent me a full cylinder replacement set. Later I received in the post a full set of three spare trucks and another two full cylinder assemblies. So.. If you ever get a sick model always contact Bachmann first before you break something trying to fix it yourself! It took three months( but I do live in New Zealand) now I have ample spares that would be for the parts that wear most.
• Deidre Renee writes: I agree now that these models should be definately approached with caution. I am sick and tired of returning the same item and get a replacement with still more faults. Not only that, it took three emails over two months to even get a reply. I thought my overpriced model had gone down a black hole.
• Ian Sach writes: The 4-6-0 10 wheeler (with sound) is a good looking & reasonably well finished loco with good weight but is a lousy puller. I'm disappointed that it struggles with only four metal wheeled 40' boxcars & caboose attached on a 2.0% incline. The incline is on a 22" curve, which I know adds more to the actual percentage of incline, however, all my other locos including two Bachmann 2-8-0's, a Proto 0-8-0, & a Roundhouse 2-6-0 all handle 8 - 12 goods carriages up this incline with ease. I think Bachmann would be wise to install traction tyres on the middle drivers - I will be applying some Bullfrogsnot or equivalent in order to fix the problem. Also, I had main gear problems with a 2-8-0 - sent back to Bachmann, replaced chassis & drivers, same problem as before - returned to BACHMANN & replaced again. I think quality control still needs tightening as both these problems involved badly inserted worm gearing and plastic main axle drive cogs. I'm disappointed with the quality, runs OK now, but took a while, & I'm not happy with the extra postage costs I incurred from Australia to USA. I'll think twice before I purchase another such loco.
• Gene Stebbins writes: I have had two Bachman K-4 Pacific Locomotives for about 15 years. I installed Kadee 711 in the pilot of each, and I usually double-head them to pull my Spirit of St Louis 12-car train. They run well in this duty or pulling a 6-car local.
• Kenneth L. Bird writes: Bachman has excellent detail but I have experienced the following. 2-8-0: Main gear on motor came loose on shaft. Doodlebug: Same problem on wheel sets, gears loose. 2-10-0: I have two of them and even when double headed they can't pull more that 10 cars. 0-8-0 Same problem, low traction. The J Class 611 derailed constantly due to a poorly designed rear truck mounting. I modified mine and it is now OK. Most of the manufacturers, including Bachman,have adapted the McHenry Kadee knock off couplers. They are very inferior to the Kadees, won't stay coupled on long trains, and the knuckels break easily. I replace all mine with Kadees.
• Elliotte Norton writes: I have a Bachmann Norfolk and Western 611 "J" class. I pull the entire Rivarossi 611 passanger car set. The train has digital comand control with all the bells and whistles. I have it running around my living room suspended about 8 inches from the ceiling. I can sit in my easy chair and control it with my digitrax empire builder controller. I love it and highly recommend it. The only problem I had was, Bachmann does not offer passanger cars that are era correct. I found my set on ebay. Rivarossi only made them a few years. I was lucky to find them. They are fully detailed with interiers. The only addition I had to make was to change the trucks and adding lighting to the passanger cars. I plan to soon have it on you tube. It will be listed as ( Nates HO N&W 611 "J" class ) in my opinion, it's the most beautiful passanger train of all time.
• Anders Nyquist writes: I have a Bachmann USRA 0-6-0. Wheel slip is very excessive.
• Fred Jensen writes: I have recently purchased the Bachmann 80 ton 3 truck shay. The performance is excellent, but I had to take the front trucks off for slippage.
• Robert DeWoody writes: I also have the 2-8-0 and I must say it is one of the best plastic HO steam locomotives I have come across. It's somewhat generic and may need some detailing specific to the railroad you model but overall it is very nice.
• Cal writes: I have several Bachmann Engines (H0). I would suggest that you stay away from the ones that actually puff smoke. Their smoking is a disappointment. Also they are especially fragile. Spectrum engines are better than my other Bachmann engines. Some of the Western Maryland Engines are used on the Western Maryland layout at the Hagerstown Roundhouse Museum. However, the view seems to be (also my experience) is that if you want a H0 smoking, the MTH trains are the best. Unfortunately, right now MTH only makes the Penn K-4 steam engine. I bought one and am very happy with the MTH Penn- K4; also enjoyed the sound system of MTH's K-4 (and this was heard by using my existing Spectrum power box).
• Michael York writes: There is a lot of confusion over Bachmann's quality. Older Bachmann locomotives were essentially low quality locomotives with nice detail. Spectrum was introduced in the late 1980's to produce better models. Bachmann Plus was introduced to bridge the gap between the two (and no longer exists). Bachmann's Spectrum 2-8-0 is one of the finest models ever introduced in HO scale (1998 MR product of the year). This wonderful locomotive sometimes gets confused with the not-so-good Bachmann Plus 2-8-0 (I had one) and their old standard line which was little more than train set toys that looked like models. Their Spectrum line is outstanding quality and a tremendous value. Their newer standard line entries (such as the new 2-8-4) are also much better than the old stuff.
• Maxwell Holmquist writes: The J1a 4-8-4 runs well with passenger consists and 100+ cars of freight. When used with a Tsunami sound decoder and 2" speaker in the tender, the sounds are AWESOME. A smoke generator can be added for more effect but do not attempt this project if you are unwilling to spend some serious time installing it. A great locomotive.
• Robert DeWoody writes: Bachmann 4-8-2: Nice looking and mine runs very smoothly. Most detail is separately applied to locomotive. Tender (USRA short) looks a little small for this locomotive and has very little detail.
• Charles Emerson writes: The Bachmann Plus 2-8-0s are really good engines, I would say better in the pulling respects than their Spectrum counterparts. While not prototypical for any of the lines except the Reading, they are overall really good engines.
• A viewer writes: The 3-truck Shay runs slow and very smooth and is DCC ready.
• A viewer writes: Flea market price for the 4-8-2 is around $110.
• A viewer writes: All are reported to have good mechanisms. One report stated that the 4-8-2 can pull 50 cars on a level track.
• A viewer writes: The 4-8-2 I purchased (new) looked very good but did not run as well as I hoped. Poor electrical contact due to weak and loose main driver spring contacts was the reason I suspect. These brass contacts are very thin and fragile, and I did not try to bend them into contact. Very poor headlight illumination, but the firebox sure glows! I returned the model for a refund, disappointed.

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Bachmann Spectrum

• Original Bachmann: These are low quality locomotives that are worth maybe $30 at the most. I would consider these to be toys.
• Bachmann Plus: This was Bachmann's mid-range line of locomotives. Their quality is better than the original Bachmann line but are not worth more than around $80.
• Spectrum: This series was introduced in the 1980s and is of high quality.

• 3-truck Shay (80 ton, various lines)
• 4-4-0 (various lines, old and modern)
• 0-6-0 (USRA)
• 2-6-0 (various lines)
• 2-6-2 (various lines)
• 4-6-0 (M&P)
• 4-6-2 (PRR K4)
• 2-8-0 (various lines)
• 2-8-2 (various lines)
• 2-8-4 (various lines)
• 4-8-2 (USRA Heavy)
• 4-8-4 (N&W, SP, various lines)
• 2-10-0 (Russian Decapod, various lines)
• 2-10-2 (USRA Light)

Web Sites

• Bachmann Trains

Other comments

• Bill K. writes: Bachmann quality can be spotty at best; I have one On30 Forney that's great, and one that just died out of the blue with about 10 min runtime, it has a short in the PC board I believe that caused a chip in the decoder to overheat in a way that were it positioned just right it would have caught on fire (the chip glowed bright orange-white and smoked). They can be contacted online through their website for warranty questions, if one has a reciept and purchased the engine from a dealer, they'll cover it up to one year; after that there's a fee for repairs that varies with the scale of the locomotive.
• Roy writes: My 3 truck shay is outstanding. Very smooth running, great sound, and powerful.
• Big John writes: I just got the Bachmann 3 Truck Shay. What a smoooothe runner pulls 12 cars maybe more as all I have is 12. Also the front 2 wheels on the front truck free wheels so it is operating on 10 wheel vs 12 wheel drive. Amazing. I only paid $119.00 for the Bachmann Spectrum Three Truck Shay from Trainworld. Some are selling them for up to $200.00. Fantastic loco and detail.
• Mike Peeso writes: I just purchased the URSA 2-10-2 and the front steering wheels keep derailing. The engine is not very powerful, so I would not buy another.
• Jerry Greenawalt writes: I have two Bachmann Spectrum K4's PRR. One is one of the first Spectrum models and wobbles down the track. It has hardly been run. I hear the centers of the wheels on these things warp. Junk. Paid good money too. The second one I have is one of the newer Spectrums with the power pickup in the tender and runs really good. I also have what was supposed to be a 2-10-4 Texas PRR, but for some reason has a UP tender on it. Not even close to be prototypic. I Dont think Ill buy anymore. Its too bad Bowser quit making their kits.
• Stephen writes: I have a Bachmann Spectrum Rock Island 2-8-0 and it runs well. Only thing is the spectrums don't start as quickly as other Bachmann DCC equipped locos but they sure run much smoother at slower speeds.
• Grant Padgett writes: I have a Bachmann Spectrum Pennsylvania K4 Pacific and it is well detailed and powerful for the money, it runs very well. Bachmann has come a long way from producing crappy toy-like models.
• Person in New York writes: I have two Spectrum locomotives, the Maryland and Pennslyvannia 4-6-0 which I have had for about a year, and the 80-Ton Shay which I have only had for a few days. The 4-6-0 is a wonderful engine, highly detailed, and has handled 4 to 6 cars on a 4 percent grade. Its only drawbacks are when it gets going down a straight at speed its front sort of swivels about, giving the appearance of waddling. The other thing is that the headlight gives an unnatural blue light. As for the shay, it is a wonderful loco, very strong, has pulled ten cars on a flat surfce with ease. Its gear shaf is extremely realistic with lots of moving parts. Has a bit of difficulty starting at a slow speed, but other wise, a great engine.
• Tom Turner writes: I purchased a Spectrum 2-8-0 (dcc & sound) Santa Fe #2528 that ran for a short time. After about 1 hours use, it failed to pull even a few cars up a 1%-2% grade. The wheels were not spinning. I think it may be the gear slippling on its shaft. I tried contacting Bachmann, with no success. Its now a year later I am still unable to use this locomotive. I finally got thru to bachmann and I am told I will need to pay a fee,plus parts & shipping. I do understand their policy but I feel that this problem was not my doing. They tell me they have not had any such problems with this model. If anyone has had similar problems please let me know.
• Paul Pietrak writes: I have two Spectrum 4-6-0s one purchased 3 years ago and one just got last week. Both locos stop or hesitate over a insulated frog. Not all the time but enough to be concerned. All pick-ups are engaged and working. Since the frog is only about an inch and a half at most and the loco picks up on both the loco and the tender, this should run ok.Any one with the same problem?
• Dedalus Wainwright writes: I have 7 Bachmann Spectrum Consolidation 2-8-0's. Out of the box, they had significantly different performance characteristics (flat performance and grade climbing performance between engines varied.) And so far, they wont pull a caboose up 3 degrees at low speeds locos purchased in spring of 2009
• William K. Jibby writes: I just purchased a Spectrum 2-10-2 that was on sale. The guys at the club love the sounds. Since it is Tsunami it is great. Only problem is Digitrax can not change the ID. Tsunami needs higher current and needs a booster to change the loco ID.
• Tom White writes: I have three Spectrum locos, a 2-8-0, a heavy 4-8-2 and a 2-6-6-2. Haven't had any problems with them at all, and all are about four years old. The USRA 2-6-6-2 is a very surprising loco--beautifully detailed (C&O prototype) and a smooth, very strong puller for its size. But all of them are very smooth runners and relatively decent pullers. Tom
• AkronMike writes: I have approximately 12 - 14 spectrum engines dating back to the original 44T. I have never had a problem nor have I been dissapointed with their performance, like all equipment you must keep them tuned and oiled. No one has mentioned the O3O narrow gage engines by Bachman. These are simply awesome and I cant think of another mnfg that can match them for quality and cost.
• Poop Dick writes: I own a spectrum 2-8-0 and a 2-10-0, the 2-8-0 is a little slow to start, it needs about 4 volts to get an abrupt start going. my 2-10-0 had a short in it after about a month of use, which i believe could've been fixed more easily than I did it but oh well, it runs well now, I also have a plus line 2-6-2 with USRA tender, and contrary to what people say about them, it is a decent puller (12 cars, for its size) and very reliable. other locos: model power saddle tank 0-4-0 and bowser dockside 0-4-0 (with added tender like 2 of the prototype engines were modified for.
• Yves Boisvert writes: I have 2 Spectrum, 4-8-4 Daylight and a 2-10-2, both have the same problem, the front pilot wheel makes contact with the cylider in curves. Can someone help me with this? Thanks
• American Flyer writes: Without too much elaboration, I'll not buy another Spectrum...or Bachmann locomotive. Of the three I own, 2 Heavy Mountain and 1 2-10-2, none have worked properly. None can pull a hot knife through melted butter. I'd recommend spending a little more money and getting a BLI or Genesis.
• Ryan Marrs writes: All of the Spectrum locomotives run well at first. However after about a year they seem to wear out. They don't pull very well at all. The newer standard line locomotives (the ones with decoders) run very well but don't look as good as they could.
• Ozark Southern writes: I own a Spectrum 0-6-0T. It's very light. I have a 1% grade on my layout and it strains to make it with more than 5 cars. Detail is excellent. Noisy when it runs forward. Silent in reverse. Headlights a tad dim. I'd give it a 7 1/2 out of 10.
• Roddo writes: I have three spectrum locos: a 2-8-0, a 2-10-0 and the NYS&W 2-8-2 which was very expensive. I like the running qualities of the 2-8-0. The 2-10-0 is fine, especially with a lenz BEMF decoder- but it does have wobbly drivers (ie the wheels move back and forth on their axles. Unfortunately the 2-8-2 has a rotten bind and runs like a brick, even with a top line decoder. Will probably need to strip down completely, re-quarter (or put away forever depending on how much time I have). They are also quite light footed and pull very few cars (the 2-8-2 is quite good though). Suggest trying before buying whenever possible. QA seems to be an issue at Bachmann. They look great nonetheless.
• Scott K writes: I have a Spectrum 4-8-2 Mountain with the factory-installed Tsunami sound decoder. It is a great locomotive. In terms of detail it rivals my brass Akane 4-6-2 Pacific and my super-detailed Mantua 2-8-2. In terms of performance it is a very strong puller and runs very smoothly at slow speed. The Tsunami sound system is fantastic. The sound quality is better than any of my other sound decoders. The chuff matches the drivers exactly. The performance options for this decoder are very good. It was a little more expensive than my BLI Blueline 2-8-2 but the BLI didn't come with an engine decoder (only sound), so add that cost and the BLI was more expensive. Overall, I think the Spectrum is slightly better than the BLI Blueline.
• Harvey Stern writes: I have five Bachmann Spectrum locomotives. They run smoothly at first but after 50 hours of running the motor brushes are worn.
• Tuna writes: I have a Bachmann Spectrum 2-6-6-2 Mallet Mogul. It's been nothing but reliable.
• Ernest Gatzke writes: I have a Spectrum 4-8-2 mountain type locomotive with a firebox that glows. I don't know why this feature was added because most steam locomotives ran with the firebox doors closed. They were opened by the fireman to shovel coal or rake the fire to even it out or to pull clinkers. It would have been made much more realistic if the glow would have been placed at the bottom of the firebox.
• Steve Workman writes: I have a Spectrum 2 truck Climax as Moore-Keppel #3. I have mostly ran it on a 3' test track, but it runs smooth, and does well at low speed. The detail is excellent, and the piston rods/flywheels move as on a real one.
• Brian M. writes: I own a Spectrum NC&StL Decapod. Since last Xmas when I got it, various bits like the windows, the cowcatcher, a pipe, and a wire have either broken off or disconnected. And I don't run it very often.
• Randall Smith writes: The Bachmann Spectrum 3-truck Shay runs extremely well pulling 12 log wagons up a constant 4% grade in true shay style.
• John Patton writes: I have a lot of Bachmann equipment such as the 3 truck 80 ton shay, a Russian Decapod, all by the "Spectrum" line. All are well detailed, the Russian Decapod, could have a thinner boiler walk to be scale. BUT it runs well and pulls decent for its size. I usually use it for a helper with my converted Rivarossi 4-6-6-4 Challenger as these 2 models are in Western Maryland livery, with this said, the Russian Decapod, runs VERY well with the Rivarossi 4-6-6-4. The Shay, runs well, a little faster then prototype but runs well, pulls well as well for its size and weight. I also have a few of the Bachmann "Plus" line steam locomotives, a 4-8-4, and a 2-8-0. Both run POORLY! I will be buying Bowser made "Bachmann re-power kits for these! These locomotives also are in Western Maryland livery.
• Bill Garry writes: I have the Spectrum 4-8-2 lettered for NYO&W. The detailing is average and the performance is excellent, but the pulling power is not 50 cars (unless perhaps if they are equipped with needle point bearings, which mine are not).
• Jerry Leeds writes: Have Spectrum engines. As a rule they don't pull very well but they do run well and look great. I guess my favorite is the Climax with the Decapod a close second. Really want a K4 with sound, but am torn between Bachmann & BLI. Probably go with Bachmann for the good sound decoder and price.
• Sam Dwire writes: As far as I can tell the Spectrum Line is far and away better than old Bachmann. As far as I can tell cost less then Broadway. I own three: a 4-8-2, a 2-10-0 and a 2-8-0. They are all good running and pull rather well. I intend on getting another 4-8-2 and at least two 2-10-2`s as well.
• Garrick Kautz writes: I have recently obtained a large variety of Spectrum locomotives. The attention to detail is exceptional. The locomotives run smoothly and I am very happy with their performance. Best place to get them is Micro Marx. Nothing bad to say other than a missing instruction sheet for my Acela dual loco set. A simple letter resulted in a replacement. In addition, you can download most of the manuals from Bachmann.
• Larry Skonieczka writes: Bachmann used to be one to stay away from, but lately they have been producing some very nice locomotives both in the Trainline and Silver Series lines. The Spectrum series has always been above the rest and the equipment, sight wise, is equal to or in some cases exceeds the more expensive BLI, Trix and Marklin locomotives.
• A viewer writes: Bachmann Spectrum have released an N&W auxiliary tender that matches the Life-Like Ys.

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Bowser

Advantages

• If you want PRR steam locomotives, Bowser is the supplier for you. They produce the old "Penn Line" series of steam locomotives. They also make a Big Boy and UP Challenger.
• Since the boilers and frames are entirely made of metal, they are heavy. As a result, they are generally good pullers. I've seen one person write: "A Bowser can pull the bumper off a Chevy.".
• Without the "super detailing kit, they can look somewhat plain. With proper detailing, these steam locomotives can look very impressive. If you know exactly what detailing you want to add, you can just buy the proper parts instead of the "super detailing kit" and save some money.

Disadvantages

• The open-frame motor and gearing produces some noise. This can be improved by re-motoring and re-gearing using NWSL parts.

Other comments

• Bill K writes: It should be noted most Bowser kits date back to the 1950s if not older, some of them originally released by defunct manufacturers like Penn Line (H9, K4, I1) and Varney (Dockside, Old Lady 2-8-0 and the similar 4-6-0), they date to an era when being a modeler meant doing a lot of the assembly yourself, and you just about needed machinist skills to finish a kit properly.
• SEY writes: I've heard that Bowser will discontinue making the steam locomotive kits!! So sorry to see this. I guess it is a sign of the times. Get these while you can.
• Benz writes: I have a Bowser Northern that I built. If you take your time getting the running gear to work smoothly (it must be able to roll freely on it's own with out the motor installed) it will be quiet even with a DC71 motor installed. Hardest part I had was scrapping slots in the inside of the tender for a NCE D408SR decoder. These are the last HO scale locomotives made in USA.
• John Patton writes: I have built many Bowser Challengers, these locomotives take a lot of work but with the detail kit and a little work they look as good as brass locomotives, and will pull a house down the street! Although they're built just like the real thing, they require large radius curved track for the articulation, 30 inch radius at least. I've also built and rebuilt two PRR I-1s from Bowser and these will also pull a house as they are extremely heavy locomotives due to the cast metal boilers. I made one into a Western Maryland I-2. With a little detail nd mill work they turned out well! As said many a time here, take your time building these locomotives as they will run like Swiss watches if the time is taken. I will buy more of these in the future for I love the process of building of these locomotives!
• Larry Myers writes: I recently completed a Bowser kit for an USRA 2-10-2. I had some trouble getting it to operate smoothly until I increased the diameter of the drive rod holes. The super-detail kit took some work but the end result was well worth the effort. The valve gear wasn't that difficult to assembly with the tool included in the kit. If you can built this kit you shouldn't need to purchase the assembled valve gear. I painted it with pollyscale steam power black.
• RL Whiting writes: I have assembled over 7 different Bowser kits, from Mikados to the Bigboy. If you pay particular attention to the fit, and smoothness of the mechanism they run wonderfully. If you do not, you will have binding and stuttering motion especially at slow speeds. I found much of this was due to clearances for the main rods, and valve gear components. As far as pulling power, I have a Challenger that will pull over 200 cars, The engine weighs 3 pounds alone with the optional weight. The Mikados will all pull about 40 cars up 2%. I usually weight up my locos as far as possible without having any weights show. Super detail kits are not hard, but I found experience is helpful in putting the parts on. It also helps if you have a good basic working knowledge of steam locomotive design and what the parts actually do, to better fit and apply them. As far as the DC-71 motor, it could be better as they can draw over an amp under load. Can motors are far more efficient. Still, for a reliable solid puller, I would buy Bowser.
• Doug Kisala writes: The Bowser "13000 gallon" tender is a model of a 130P75/130F82, and was used (in varying configurations) behind class I1s/I1sa, K4s, K5, L1s, and M1.

  According to the Spring 1988 Keystone, 100 130F82 tenders were constructed for use with I1s Decapods. From the mid 30s to 1949, all were converted to 130P75 tenders and were used mostly by K4s engines. A few were used behind M1 Mountains and L1s Mikados.

  Two 130P70 tenders (with different trucks) were built in 1929 for use with the 2 K5 Pacifics. These were later converted to 130P75 when the K5 engines got stokers. Still later, they received 2FT2 trucks (like the kind Bowser sells with their tender) making them look just like the other 130P75 tenders. After class K5 was retired in 1953, the tenders went to K4s Pacifics.

  Starting in 1952, a small number of 130P75 were converted back to 130F82 for use behind I1sa Decapods.

  The Bowser 13000 gallon tender needs some modifications to be correct depending on time frame and the engine modeled, but is a starting point for their I1sa, K4s, and would be appropriate behind M1 and K5 engines.

  K4s 1361's current tender is 130P75 3950.

• A viewer writes: Bowser steam locomotives are usually sold in kit form.
• A viewer writes: Building a Bowser kit requires patience. Riviting the valve gear assembly probably requires the most. This is not necessarily a drawback -- some people get as much enjoyment out of building the model as running it. I have written a few paragraphs about building Bowser kits that is now part of the rec.models.railroad FAQ.
• Andy Miller writes: The Bowser locomotives are accurate models of their prototypes. However, in some cases the tenders are not always correct or at least ordinary for the engine to which they are attached. For example, the K4 tender is rare for a K4. It is much more appropriate behind the L1. A very good looking, and far more common tender for a K4 can be made by shortening the body casting of the "long distance" tender which Bowser provides with its I1. Several feet have to be spliced OUT of the middle and the resulting body then mounted on K4 tender trucks. The E6 tender is just wrong for an E6. The right tender can be had from MDC. It should be mounted on Bowser's Dolphin trucks.
• Wes Barris writes: Although Bowser sells both a Big Boy and a UP Challenger, they do not sell a centipede tender. They sell an optional semi-Vanderbilt tender instead. If you really want a centipede tender, you have a several options.
  1. Find a lone Rivarossi centipede tender at a flea market. This may take quite a while. I have seen one at a flea market for $50. This tender will need to be modified for electrical pickup. I've done this using NWSL wheels and some brass wipers that I fabricated.
  2. Find a Monogram Big Boy kit at a flea market. I've seen many of these. They usually sell for around $10. You will also need a conversion kit that Bowser sells that has brass wheels for this tender. Last time I was there, Caboose Hobbies in Denver, CO had a couple of these Monogram centipede tenders with the Bowser wheels installed. They were priced at $75 ea.
  3. In 2002, Rivarossi has begun selling individual centipede tenders. I have no information on availability. Check at your local hobby store.

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Best Source

• The best source for Bowser locomotives is probably a mail order company. Standard Hobby Supply sells them. I would hesitate to buy a Bowser kit at a flea market because you would be buying a box of parts not knowing if everything is included.

Web Sites

• Bowser

Broadway Limited Imports

BLI also has a cheaper line of locomotives (still with DCC and sound) with molded on boiler details and some other omitted features from its Paragon Series (BLI's standard line) called the Powerhoude Classics series. Only a Heavy USRA Mike and a Rio Grande C-16 have been released in this series. BLI had a problem with locomotives shorting out for various reasons, but they have fixed this. A second release heavy 2-8-2 has no problems. They also had a few detail shortcomings on a recent HO scale model of ATSF #3751. BLI has announced a PRR K-4s in the new "Paragon Platinum Series", in which the boiler shell is cast metal and (from what BLI says) has even more separate details. This engine is on the pricey side for not being a Mallet, at $450. So far BLI has shown a liking for Eastern prototypes, although BLI has announced four (one UP and three Santa Fe)western engines. Like all of the other manufacturers, BLI seems to ignore any Midwestern or Deep Southern prototypes unless you count the two N&W offerings they have. Their selling point right now seems to be offering prototype-specific steamers with sound and DCC.

Information provided by Christopher Meyer.

Other Comments

• Jim S writes: Have a P2 Hudson (J1e) purchased in 2010 that lurched and jerked in addition to needing a new DCC board and steam unit in it. I sent it back only to have it returned with it still lurching and jerking. I sent it in again and it came back closer to normal performance. Then the lurching and jerking started again. I am still in the process of getting the issue resolved. I have a Blue Line SD40 that operates quite well, but both are loud "grinders" in reverse. Also the steam unit buzzes and apparently this is "normal"??? I will be trying MTH to see if it's worth the extra money!!
• Richard Chilton writes: I own 16 Blue Line and Paragon 2 diesels and steamers. I have installed Digitrax DZ143PS decoders in all the Blue Line engines with oustanding results and (so far) no problems at all. They run very smooth and quiet when sound is off. The smoke units can make a squeeking sound at first but it seems to quiet down after some use. 'Turns out this is "normal" so no need to worry. Slow speed is incredible and smooth. I've had good support from BLI techs when I had a question, just be aware of their hours, 12-4pm est. I have one refurbished Mohawk and it works excellent so far. Over all I think the BLI engines and freight cars are an excellent value for the quality and performance. I have the new Brass Q2 and it is an exceptional looking show piece that runs as well as it looks, however it dose not have traction tires so it won't haul grades as well as the Y6b die cast 2-8-8-2. I believe BLI is listening to feedback and responding with improvements each model run. They appear to be paying attention to their competition as well. Over all I think BLI engines and rolling stock are an excellent value for the quality and performance they offer.
• gene gleason writes: i have 30 bli steam and diesels, just got the prrq2, outstanding engine runs great looks great sounds great. my fleet have had some problems but for the most part an impressive product line
• Tom White writes: Despite being dual-mode (DC/DCC) the BLI's are really designed for the DCC modeler. In DC, they take an inordinate amount of voltage to get going, and on my DC layout, they are controllable only in the upper quadrant of my Controlmaster 20 power pack. With that aside, they are extremely well detailed and quite smooth runners. However, since they cannot be operated in tandem with my own DC locos, I am in the process of selling my BLI steam fleet. However, for the DCC modeler, I would think that these are some of the best locomotives on the market. Their prototypes seem to be geared more toward the 'Eastern' steam modeler--particularly PRR, with only a bow to western roads such as Santa Fe and Union Pacific. But they are quite good models. Tom
• Joseph Bille writes: I have several BLI engines, Two Hybrid New Haven I-5s, tow 2-10-4s (one PRR J-1 and one C&O T-1), a PRR M-1b, a PRR T-1, an N&W J class 4-8-4 (Stealth) and a PRR USRA Mikado. I've had minor problems with a few of them, sound mostly, and a sheared side-rod bolt on my first I-5...the guys at BLI were responsive and helpful, and repaired the bolt on the I-5 with no service or shipping charge...so I guess I don't understand why some of the listings here relate having problems with customer service.... I think there are definite issues with the sound systems in both the Paragon 2 and the BlueLine, but that can usually be solved by a DCC reset - easier on Paragon than on BlueLine...shorts and smoke are altogether another thing, of course, but my experience with Broadway Limited has been good overall.
• SY writes: I bought a new PRR J1 2-10-4. It made gear noise right out of the box!! I sent it in, 6 weeks later I got it back, they replaced the gears which they said were defective. Later I had exactly the same issue with the M1A 4-8-2 Mountain.
• Jeff Hunsaker writes: I bought the USRA heavy 2-8-2, the PowerHouse series. It ran well on DC for about a month, then it began to short out at random places on the track-not even on any turn-outs, it would quit, shut down and then re-boot itself. Then the sound would start fading in and out and need to be reset to the factory settings, but even then it would soon start it all over again. I am quite dissapointed with it.
• John Mock writes: I have two of the most recently released BLI Blueline USRA Heavy 2-8-2's, and I run only in DC mode. They run very well and the sound is good, and not as loud from the factory as my Precision Craft PRR I-1sa (whose high pitched Banshee whistle scares my youngest son). With the DC Master, you can "play" the whistle of the Blueline engines a little bit. My only complaint is that once they start moving, the speed curve progresses quite rapidly (in DC mode) to a rather fast speed. I wish they were geared for a little bit more gradual speed curve.
• American Flyer writes: I own an ATSF 4-8-4. Everything works as advertised. It's a good, solid locomotive. It will pull 30 cars with lots of power to spare. I am a Genesis aficionado, but I'd certainly buy another BLI steam locomotive. In fact, I pray the yet-to-be-released Paragon2 Hudson is as good as this locomotive!
• Alan Arthur writes: We have been running a BLI cab forward several hours a day for over 3 years. It pulls 35 flatcars of die cast tractors up a 3% grade quite well.
• John Baker writes: I just purchased a BLI 2-8-2 Heavy Mikado. I am running DCC. It shorts when it goes over switches, but not every time and not the same switch each time.
• Al Crawford writes: I recently purchased two BLI Mikado's (Paragon series) from two different sources. One runs great while the other shorts out my DCC system when it goes left around any 24 inch radius curve. It goes around a right-hand curve just fine. I contacted Broadway but received no reply. My new BLI Hudson works great in all respects.
• Al Turkel writes: I have a 2-8-2 and a 4-6-6-4. Both ran good to start but then the sound units went (within one week of each other). Next, the 4-6-6-4 starts bucking and soon it was smoking and not from the smoke stack. I called customer service but it was a waste of time. They offered to sell me some other locomotives at a special price. They didn't seem to value the customer.
• John Patton writes: I too question BLI's quality. I bought a Blue Box series "heavy" 2-8-2 with sound. I had it for less than a month when it stopped running and the sound only "idled" in place. I had it replaced and the new locomotive did the same thing within a week!
• Frank Pedone writes: I'm seriously questioning the quality of Broadway engineering. In April 04 I bought 3751 Class 4-8-4. The headlight didn't work. BLI tech dept.support sent me a new headlight. That was defective. They instructed me to send back the entire unit for repair. I complied, put it in the mail and then had second thoughts. It was brand new so I called them and insisted on a new unit replacement. They complied and i got a new unit. On Jan.15, 2008 I bought EMD F7/A and B both powered with quantum sound. This week the B unit wouldn't move and while trying to use the sidekicks it was making relay clicks, muffled sound and then went to a loud static noise before it completely died. Again I had to send it to them and am facing a 4-6 week wait for it to be repaired. Not Happy! To add to my anger, the A unit isn't running smoothly on pristine clean track and wheels.
• Jim Trowbridge writes: I have a BLI light Mikado and a BLI New Haven I-5. The Mikado has the traction tire and easily pulls 25 to 30 40' cars up a grade. I have put a new QSI chip in it that supports more sound features. The I-5 is beautiful with a low whistle that sounds like a steamship horn. It can pull 8+ heavyweights up a grade on an N scale power setting on a DB 150 at 55 to 60 Mph. Add 10 mph or so for an HO setting. The sound of power functions are great.
• Charles Ditmore writes: I bought a new Mikado used it very little when it developed two significant issues, the second of which required that I send the entire unit back to the supplier for repair. The first issue turned out to be caused by the wires under the cab getting pinched between the solder points on the IC board and the underside of the cab. This resulted in loss of sound in one direction and was easily fixed by routing the wires better. The second issue resulted from excessive solder on the backside of bottom IC board shorting to the chassis when I attempted to use the volume control knob to lower the volume. This resulted in complete loss of all engine functions even after the short was removed and a hardware reset was performed. As others have stated, the detail is great, as is the quality of the sound.
• Donald Penniman writes: I just received an I-5 New Haven Railroad Hudson. It is a great locomotive. All I had to do was change the coupler on the tender. Then I found the draw-bar from the locomotive was too short so I found a Mantua draw-bar that was 1/16th of an inch longer and hooked it up and now I'm running a train I call the "Yankee Clipper". I must say Broadway did a great production with this locomotive.
• Gary Nahass writes: I bought five of them, a Hudson, Mikado, Norfolk & Western 4-6-6-4, Mountain and a F-9 Diesel. They are beautiful. Lower the volume from the factory settings and give them a little oil if the wheels squeak. You can operate the horn and the bell with a regular DC power pack. They merged with Precision Craft which require a $50 button to operate the sounds in DC. They have come out with the economical "Blueline" engines which need another $50 button to make the horn work. It's time for me to spring for a DCC system so I can use any brand of loco.
• Bill Neale writes: I regularly run 2 of the Broadway M1a 4-8-2 engines on my railroad. They have prooven to be extremely reliable and are strong pullers. I run 25 car trains up 2% grades and have no problems. I do recommend that owners apply light lubrication to the driver journals as these tend to run dry. The exhaust sound and the whistle sound are very realistic, hence, these engines are the ones used to show off the railroad to occasional visitors. Consequently, they get a lot of use. The only drawback is the QSI sound system that does not match chuff rate to driver rotation at higher speeds.
• Robert DeWoody writes: BLI 2-8-2 Light Mikado: Nice looking and the sound is impressive. Some detail molded on the boiler but most are separately applied parts. Starts and runs at a very low speed. It comes with traction tires on the last pair of drivers but has a spare set without tires if desired. My only negative comment is that there is no glass in the cab windows.

Add Broadway Limited Comment

Web Sites

• Broadway Limited Imports

IHC (International Hobby Corporation)

Advantages

• IHC steam locomotives have can motors (although they are cheap ones). They have exceptionally low current draw.
• They also use a small flywheel. However, the flywheel is too small to have any noticeable effect.
• They are cheaper than Rivarossi (but then so are a lot of things).

Disadvantages

• IHC will sell a number of locomotives of one design where only the railroad line is changed. For example, they sell a Mountain (4-8-2) in GN, UP, SP, C&O, etc. This particular locomotive is based on a C&O prototype. The other lines never had this particular locomotive. In this example, the model is pretty true to the prototype except the coal bunker of the tender is not correct -- it is too large.
• These locomotives are plastic with some lead weight added -- but not enough. They are too slippery.

Best Source

• The best source for IHC steam locomotives is probably a flea market. I've seen the Mountain sell for around $100, the Prairie for around $60.

Other comments

• Bill K. writes: IHC is a descendant of AHM, run by the same guy. They basically collected everyone else's cast-offs and re-tooled them into some decent products. The USRA light Pacific was an RSO Yugoslavia piece that's been sold by just about every manufacturer that imports stuff over the years - Life Like, AHM, Model Power, Mehano. The USRA 2-8-2 is the same boiler with another chassis. The 2-8-0 (later offered as an 0-8-0 as well) is the Tyco "Chattanooga" 2-8-0/0-8-0 with a new drive and the USRA tender from the Pacific (0-8-0 appears to use the tender from their 2-6-0). The 2-6-0/4-4-0 was originally offered in the late 1970s by both Life-Like and later Pemco, who also initially offered the 4-8-2 (both with a tender drive I believe, the 2-6-0 for sure). The old-time 4-4-0 is the same old AHM "Inyo" dating to the 1960s. Some of these were junk as initally offered, others (the USRA Pacific/Mike) were never too bad and needed only a better motor to be a decent quality engine. The last I had heard, they were in the process of moving production to China when Mehano went bust, while the man behind IHC was hospitalized with an illness, so just what's to come next who knows - but I am sure someone will pick up the pieces eventually. They bring too much money used (watching 2-6-0s and 2-8-0s bring $30-$50 on eBay in mid-2010) to let die.
• David Colgan writes: I finally aquired an IHC loco. Technically it is an RSO Mehano, but it is the exact copy of a 4-6-2 light pacific from IHC. paid $7.00 (seven) dollars for it from the bargain big at my LHS. Runs well even for a 3-pole motor.
• David Colgan writes: These engines are getting hard to find as IHC has gone out of business. Good runners and worth the 50-75$ for small steam (4-4-0/0-8-0/2-8-0/2-6-0) I don't believe that they ever made a prairie.
• Gavin writes: I purchased a 4-8-2 CN loco through Great Canadian Superstore, the rest of the set was pretty cheap but the loco was fantastic. The mechanism is so quiet that all you hear when it is running is the hiss of the wheels on the track. I went out and bought a set of undec Athearn heavyweight passenger cars and painted them up in CN colours. I shortened the drawbar to give it a more realistic spacing between the loco and tender.
• Person in New York writes: I have two IHC engines, a 2-8-2 and a 4-6-2. The wierd thing is that they look exactly alike, aside from numbers of drivers, driver diameter, and colors. The 2-8-2 is certainly my most powerful engine, and I can attach it to 15 cars and not worry about slipping at all. The 4-6-2 is slightly less powerful, but delightfully fast! They both are not the most detailed engines, but IHC is the brand to use if you want sturdy, reliable, workhorse engines that will pull any train you attach them to.
• John writes: I own an old AHM Big Boy that's slated for repairs if I can find parts for it, or static display if not. I'm surprised it does run albeit not very well. I also have an IHC 'Premier Line' GG-1 (PRR) and am frankly astonished at it's performance. Easily rivals my newer Kato diesels for smooth running, quietness and slow speed operation. My only complaint is the very dim headlight at slow speeds.
• Andrew writes: I own two IHC engines and have had them for at least two years and they really aren't half bad except for the pacific which ran for 1 month and then went out. I have a 2-6-0 from IHC that's running but it can only pull 2 cars and then it struggles
• Andrew Cayer writes: I just bought an IHC 4-6-2. I was surprised. For the price this loco works very well. I had a bad experience with a Bachmann 4-4-0 Spectrum. I had to send it back. It took three months to receive a new one and it still doesn't work too well. I think that I'll be buying a few more IHCs and forget about Bachmann.
• Jim Valimont writes: I have a 2-10-2 Sante Fe, a 4-6-4 Hudson, and an 0-8-0 switcher that I bought directly from IHC. I have them all equipped with Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders for DCC operation. All locomotives were made in Slovenia, and I'm pleased with all of them. They are the workhorses of my layout and I've been running them for over two years now. They pull great and have good low speed movement. I also have some Bachmann steam locomotives which are OK but do not perform quite as well as my IHC locos.
• Tom writes: It appears that Mehano is now out of business and they went to China to build their new loco's. My first 2-10-2 made my Mehano was great, and the second one made in China was junk. Also their diesels made in China stink. I returned the 2-10-2 made in China for a Proto which was great. Seems you get what you pay for. So if you pick a good contract manufacturer in China it is ok, but if you buy junk, that is what you get and sell to the public. Buyer beware.
• Ryan Marrs writes: I have four IHC locomotives (a 2-6-0, 2-8-0, 4-6-2 and 2-10-2). These are all wonderful performers. They pull better than most locomotives. The 2-10-2 is DCC ready which is very nice. The detailing could be much better but they are pretty cheap.
• tman writes: According to the pacificcoastairlinerr.com, the IHC 4-4-0 locos are not actually HO scale (3mm/ft), but the British OO scale (4mm/ft). I don't know if this is also true for their other locos.
• David Starr writes: I have a pair of IHC 2-6-0 Moguls. They are good runners, reasonably priced, have nice low speed creeping, and quiet mechanisms. These are small and light so they don't pull all that much, but then the prototype Moguls didn't pull much either. The interior is packed pretty full of weight. There isn't room to add much more. The pilot coupler can be replaced with a working Kadee coupler after a good deal of Dremel work on the pilot to open out the coupler mounting hole. Looks can be improved by painting the bright and shiny tender wheels grimy black.
• Anders writes: I got an IHC 2-8-0. Lots of wheel slip. It's a poor puller.
• Tuna writes: I have 2 IHC locomotives - a Mountain and a Pacific. The Mountain was my first locomotive. It runs pretty good for what it costs. The Pacific is the IHC Gold version done up in the ALTON LIMITED paint scheme. I just got it and have not run it much. I added a Tsunami sound decoder and it appears to be working ok.
• John Patton writes: I've got the IHC 2-8-2, 4-6-2, and 4-8-2. They all run OK but don't have the greatest pulling power as they're too light. However with added weight and some removal of cast-on detail, and re-applied road specific detail, they make for a decent locomotive for a low price. I've taken an IHC 4-8-2 frame and replaced the boiler with an extended IHC 2-8-2 boiler and replaced the Vanderbilt tender with a Rivarossi tender to make a B&O T-3. In summary, these locomotives aren't the greatest out of the box, but excellent for kit-bashing a prototype of your choice with a little work. Don't forget to add weight for pulling power. The newer series from IHC seems to have an improved motor and drive.
• RL Whiting writes: I have several IHC locomotives. (3 consolidations, 2 mountains, a mikado and a pacific). The detailing is average and not very specific roadwise. The Pacific, Mikado and Mountains are basically USRA design copies. The 2-8-0 is very generic. I have had some of these for a long time, since about 1995. They all run smoothly, but the smaller engines are not great pullers. Still, I would rather have a smooth running engine than one that pulls hard but is not smooth. The prices on these have risen considerably in the last few years. The mergers of the manufacturers has caused all of the HO prices to rise so this is not unexpected. To be totally honest, unless I find an IHC model worth buying at a flea market I would buy and assemble a Bowser kit instead.
• Alex writes: I have owned an IHC Mountain for about 8 years or so. In all that time I've only had one major complaint. The wiring on it is kinda flimsy. The connecting wire between the tender and the loco broke. Furthermore, when I take the engine apart I feel like I have to treat it very gently for fear of pulling the soldered connections apart. Only one other minor complaint is that its definitely not a GN P-2. It is some other roads engine, probably a C&O from pics I've seen, but Im not knowledgeable enough on eastern RRs to confirm). My model has TONS of detail, but all for a different engine then its made out to be. The tender has loads of room for DCC. Still, short of brass, I haven't been able to find any good plastic GN P-2s, and I don't feel confident enough to scratch-detail this one to be a P-2, so I'm content with it's little masquerade.
• Sam Dwire writes: Having went to a salvage store I found a IHC 4-6-4 in a trainset that was selling for $15.00. The rest of the set was junk but the locomotive ran so well that I decided to keep it for my layout.
• Jeff Deprato writes: I recently purchased an IHC premier series 2-10-2 locomotive that came DCC ready. It has been a very good engine and have run it for several hours at my club. It will pull a fairly long train without any problems. I would consider purchasing another one like it in the future.
• Steve Wysowski writes: I have four IHC produced 4-4-0s. I re-powered all of the New Haven 4-4-0s using Nihon motors with 3:22 gear-heads from the motorman in Texas. This provides an operating speed of between 5 and 20 MPH, prototypical for these locomotives for a branch line. I also super-detailed them all using Cal Scale parts. I redesigned the pick-ups using Tomar Wipers so they run very smoothly and are weighted to pull as many as 15 cars on the straight and level. These are outstanding running little locomotives and the price is right.
• Tom Clarke writes: The IHC 2-8-2 Mikado is great value for your money. However, the sub-frame is made of rather soft plastic, which will allow the drive wheel axles to eventually burrow into it, even with the most generous lubrication. This wear makes the drive wheels sloppy and wobbly, which in turn makes for very a poor connection between the wheels and the track, often causing stops over switches and elevation changes. I have finally done some modifications to my engines to eliminate this problem; I have drilled out the sintered bronze bushings that normally house drive shafts. I then went on to cut them in two, and install the half-bushing into the Mike's sub-frame, with a little dremel work to make them fit. The axles of the drive wheels no longer rub against the plastic sub-frame, but are instead contacting the sintered bronze bushings, saving the sub-frame from terminal wear. This is perhaps the ONLY drawback to these IHC 2-8-2s. Aside from this, they are fabulous in terms of looks, quietness, low-speed power, and overall elegance.
• A viewer writes: Mountain and Consolidation: Run well, but not much low speed sensitivity. DCC can be added to either. The Mountain is difficult to disassemble and put back together. The DCC converter can be located in the tender on both.
• A viewer writes: I now own 3 IHC loco's: the Pacific, Mike & Consolidation. I found all of them ran poorly out of the box but found this was caused by poor lubrication of the motor bearings & gearbox. I simply squirted a few drops of oil into these areas and now all 3 perform superbly - virtually no noise from the mechanism. All three now outshine my Spectrum K4 which is by no means bad.
• A viewer writes: Low speed pull is excellent, and engine weight feels good to me. I'm only pulling around 10-12 cars at the moment, but even on a 3.5% incline it doesn't slow down or slip at all. Moreover, it's extremely quiet running. Only drawback is that it doesn't come with a smoke system. This can be easily added (IHC makes a smoke system add-on, which I've purchased but not yet tried to install). They don't mention the add-on in the engine's docs however).

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Web Sites

• IHC

Life-Like Proto 2000 Heritage Steam Collection

Advantages

Disadvantages

• Expensive ($350+)
• Proto models are too delicate for much operational handling.

Other comments

• STEF writes: Got USRA HEAVY 2-10-2, undecorated w sound; weathered it (the Life Like locos are shiny black) and decaled it for Erie. This loco is AWESOME, smooth, powerful, nice sound. These proto locos are great I think.
• Richard writes: The Proto heritage line is a true piece of art running down the tracks. I have the older run with no traction tires and they do fall short on pulling power so I will contact Walthers to see if they can help me upgrade my older models. Another issue is I am afraid to run them heavily do to the delicate construction of the side rod assemblies. They use very small "rivet" style pins to connect the outer most rods the the larger inner rod and as these move around I am afraid they will wear the delicate flair on the pin until it falls out. Since these are not nuts and bolts, they will be difficult at best to repair. I have a beautiful 2-10-2 sitting on a shelf for precicley this reason. I will be calling Walthers to see if I can order replacement side rod assemblies to have on hand. If you want rugged steam engines for constant running & have good detail I would go with Broadway limited in general. I do love my Heritage engines but they need to upgrade their line to keep up with the competition. The newer engines are gorgeous & improved but I feel they need to be more stout & user servicable.
• Eric L. writes: I have purchased a Virginian P2K 2-8-4 Berkshire and installed Soundtraxx's Tsunami Heavy Steam decoder. The model is an aesthetic masterpiece: beautifully detailed cab and siderods, Virginian-specific details, and non-molded-on exterior plumbing. Great puller on level track and medium grades. However, I have the first-run edition, and be advised that it is a slippery beast on heavy grades (I couldn't get more than 10 cars up my club's admittedly very steep 3.5% grade). Looks like I'll be placing a call to Walthers for traction tires, which do indeed come on the second-run model. Other than that, I highly recommend the Berk.
• Grant Padgett writes: I just bought a Proto 2000 Pere Marquette N-2 Berkshire and I have nothing but good things to say about it, the detail is amazing and the paint on it is crisp and realistic. Sure its delicate to handle but as far as this loco goes I rate it a 10, when I get enough money I plan to snatch that Pennsylvania 2-8-8-2 with sound.
• Tom White writes: Frankly, until two days ago, I would walk a mile to avoid a Proto2000 steamer--overpriced, and though exquisitely detailed, EXTREMELY poor pullers. I had a USRA 0-8-0 and a USRA 2-8-8-2 and both were extremely disappointing locomotives--especially for the price. However, several days ago I was in my LHS and saw a new DC Proto USRA 2-8-8-2 in their Rio Grande version, and I got curious. After watching it demonstrated for me, I bought it with the understanding that if it proved as disappointing as my other Proto steamers, I could return it. Frankly, I am amazed. Without traction tires (which I abhor), the new Proto handled about 25 cars over my MR, which contains wide (36" radius)curves and stiff (up to 2-1/4%) grades without any trouble at all. The loco is heavy, well balanced and beautifully detailed. It also has incredible control throughout the speed range. If this is the path of future Proto2000 steam locos, then I'm certainly willing to change my opinion of them. This one is a jewel. Tom
• Ian Sach writes: I have an older Proto 0-8-0, the DC model before tender pickups. I added a Tsunami sound decoder and pickups to all tender wheels. The loco runs superbly, the BEMF adds to its slow crawl ability and I have had no problems with motor noise or lack of pulling power. The coupler connector is poorly designed & failed not long after purchase. I made a sturdier styrene box housing which solved the problem. Out of three other manufacturers I have to say that the Proto loco's are by far the best in my stable.
• SY writes: I have an N&W 2-8-8-2 and a C&O 0-8-0 and 2-8-4. These three engines are the three best running steam engines I have ever had (I have had probably 150 engines over the years!!!). They run like Swiss watches and look very nice as well. Easy to add Decoder and/or Sound!!
• Kenneth L. Bird writes: I have a large number of their diesels and they run well. The early models had a problem with cracked gears on the wheels sets. They sound like a "flat wheel" when they run. I have had to replace five sets of them this year. I have not had any problems with recent production models.
• Jim Valimont writes: I recently purchased a 2-8-8-2 in which I plan to install a soundtraxx Tsunami decoder. While I'm pleased with the appearance and initial operation of this locomotive, I find the drawbar connection to the tender very fragile and of poor design as it broke the second time I connected the locomotive to the tender. I question whether this connection arrangement is truly reflective of the origional design.
• Andrew writes: I have the first run 2-8-4 & 2-8-8-2 (both non sound equipped)both are beautifully detailed, smooth quiet runners, weak slippery pullers (the newer run locos have traction tires which have improved things in this regard).
• A visitor writes: I purchased my 0-8-0 on Ebay (new & sealed) for $50 and it runs very well without any trouble whatsoever.
• Roland Kucharski writes: The Proto 2000 0-8-0 is the best running loco I've ever had and I've got a lot of engines. It is extremely smooth with a load or without that machine can actually crawl.
• Jake Fischer writes: I recently bought one of these engines, the sound is top notch and very prototypical. I must say that they are among the smoothest steam models I have ever seen. The only drawback is that it suffers from lack of traction. I struggled to pull a load of 30 hoppers on a 1.5 percent grade, but this can be fixed with the new included traction tires. When added it pulled 95 hoppers up a 1.5 percent grade. Overall, best steamer ever purchased, and highly recommended.
• A viewer writes: The newly released USRA 0-8-0 sells for $225 retail.
• A viewer writes: The appliances and tender size of the various 2-8-8-2 models are customized to match that of the prototype.
• The eccentric cranks on the right side of the locomotive are offset in the wrong direction.
• A viewer writes: Flea market price for this locomotives is around $275.
• A viewer writes: This locomotive was reviewed in Model Railroader, March 2000, page 16.
• Charles Emerson writes: I also have 2 P2K 2-8-8-2s and 3 0-8-0s to which I have also installed Soundtraxx decoders. These models are excellent and have exquisite detail perhaps even more than some brass (Sunset) models. My only criticism is that as beautiful a model as they are, for which we are paying top dollar for a limited run model and there is no crew. A bit stingy on Life-Like's part.
• Robert DeWoody writes: P2K Heritage 2-8-4 Berkshire: This is a great model locomotive and has railroad specific details for the names offered. I have the NKP Berk and think it is the best non articulated plastic steam locomotive to date. It pulls about 18 freight cars up a 2% grade and would pull more if either heavier or if it had a traction tire. I've pulled over 30 cars on flat grade. P2K Heritage 0-8-0: This model is loaded with applied details and runs as well as it looks.

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Web Sites

• Life-Like Proto 2000 Heritage Steam Collection

Mantua

Because Mantua was a major manufacturer of HO steam, and because many people still have Mantua locomotives, information on them will remain as part of this page.

In the late 1990s, Mantua steam locomotives underwent a transformation. They used to offer the following wheel arrangements: 0-4-0, 0-6-0, 2-8-2, 4-4-2, 4-6-2, 4-6-4 (two versions, one with pacific boiler and one with mikado boiler), and a 2-6-6-2 articulated logging locomotive. They were all powered by an open frame motor. The newer incantation of these locomotives included more wheel arrangements including several camelbacks. The newer models also came in a variety of road names and had Sagami can motors and improved gearing. I have heard that these can motors made a considerable difference in locomotive performance.

Mantua made steam locomotives in the "small to medium" size range. The switcher is a fairly accurate model of a Reading 0-4-0, except that it scales out about a foot too high. The 0-6-0 version is not a model of anything other than an 0-4-0 body on a 0-6-0 chassis. The switchers come with a rubber tire on one wheel.

Mantua applied two versions of a larger boiler to different chassis to produce both light and heavy USRA designs of both the 4-6-2 and the 2-8-2 wheel arrangements. The 4-6-2 is very close to a USRA light 4-6-2 or a B&O class P-7 4-6-2. The 2-8-2 is very close to a Lehigh Valley 2-8-2 or CB&Q O-3. They also used it as a generic camelback boiler.

Advantages

• If you want affordable camelback steam, you don't really have any other choice.

Disadvantages

• Steam locomotive designs used for Mantua locomotive are more or less generic.

Other comments

• Bill K writes: Mantua originally offered Reading-RR prototype and some more generic prototype kits of brass and cast construction. Most of the current kits again date to the 1950s era and originally were sold with all cast boilers, cabs and tenders. They were retooled in the 1960s to get plastic tender shells and cabs, the 0-4-0 eventually getting an all-plastic shell (and under Tyco it even got the same drive as the diesels used). The Sierra 4-6-0 was a 1960s release and it's somewhat oversize, scaling more to British OO than to American HO size. It was offered for a short time as a 4-8-0 as well. After the split, some Tyco/Mantua items eventually went to IHC - IHC's 2-8-0 and 0-8-0 use the boiler casting sold for years as the tender drive Tyco "Chattanooga" engine, but I have also run into a "Mantua" version with a conventional drive. The casting itself is a take on a USRA 0-8-0. Like anything else, how they run depends on the skill of the assembler, but most of them can be made to operate acceptably.
• DeeK writes: I have two Mantua 2-6-2 "praire type" and they are good engines - no mention of the 2-6-2 above??
• SY writes: EASY to convert the older motors for DCC OPERATION; take a Dremel w a Cut off disc and cut a groove into the brass tab on the top of the motor connected to the rear most brush spring; now both brushes are isolated from the motor and frame, solder two feeder wires and you are ready for the Decoder!!!
• Ronald Busey writes: I purchased a Model Power WM 2-6-6-2. Model Power service on warranted units SUCKS! On third send to company, I am having them keep my engine (since no one there is competent to repair) and send me a NEW one when next shipment comes in in 2010.
• David J. Starr writes: The older Mantuas are decent runners. The boilers are Zamac castings which give them weight. The stock Mantua mechanisms run smoothly despite the open frame motors. I put a can motor into a Mantua Pacific which made a good runner into an even better runner. Stock, the lowest creep speed was about 5 scale mph. The can motor dropped that down to 0.05 scale mph. That Pacific served as the base for a B&M P4 kitbash. The overall dimensions match those of a P4 to within a few scale inches. Parts are still available through Yardbird Trains. The works are simple and there is little that can go wrong that cannot be fixed. In many cases a new paint job is all that is needed to revive a tired looking used engine.
• James writes: Mantua's HO scale replica of Sierra Railway 4-6-0 No. 3 has proved to be an absolute godsend for my modeling purposes. The protoype is the famed, so-called 'Movie Star Train' that has appeared in a number of films and televisions shows, including "Back to the Future", "Little House on the Prairie," and "Petticoat Junction". This locomotive suits the time period and atmosphere of the protoype railroad I'm modeling to a tee (1880-1920). The best part is that Mantua offered various different versions of this locomotive featuring different dome styles, different stack styles, different wheel arrangements, even different tender loads (coal or wood). Alas, HO versions of this lovely engine are no longer commercially available through any maker. Fortunately, however, Mantua's are easily found on Ebay and for sale at train shows at terribly reasonable prices. With Sierra No. 3 currently being restored it will be interesting to see if any of the current HO makers decide to offer it.
• Scott K writes: I have a Mantua 2-8-2 Mikado with a nice super-detail kit but the boiler is massively over-sized even for a USRA heavy Mikado. It's bigger than the boiler on my 4-8-2 Mountain and nearly as big as my 2-10-2 Big Six. I was hoping to make a passable B&O Q Mikado by adding a Vanderbilt tender but the whole loco is just too big. Then I thought I might try to kitbash it into a 4-8-2 but it will be too much work to relocate the cylinders and replace the rods to accommodate the 4 wheel truck. Oh well, I just pretend it is a freakish B&O frankenengine :). Otherwise, it is tough as nails and heavy enough to haul a small building. The detail is nice and once I replace its horrible open-frame motor with a can, I'm sure it will be a very strong, smooth puller.
• Mary Kutner writes: My Husband and I picked up their 0-6-0 and goat locomotives as we had luck with their loggers. We must have 50-55 steam locomotives of all makes. I must say you can't kill these little beasts. We only put 5 cars on the 0-6-0 but on the Goat we have 14 cars of various sizes and weights. Jack and I run this line 4 hours a day 5 days a week and we really like the quality. They are detailed fairly well. Whomever bought them seems to know how to make a loco run. Anybody can make a $400.00 loco but a very good one for $150.00 is what we need.
• Jon Altemac writes: I have a new logger running 6 hours a day. No problems and it's pulling 22 logging cars up my 2.5% grade.
• John Patton writes: I own several Mantua steam locomotives. They are generic, but with a little detail the 2-8-2 can be made into a respectable B&O Q-3 or Q-4. Same goes for the Mantua 4-6-2 which is a very close replica to a B&O P-7. I also have a 2-6-6-2 made into an 0-6-6-0 to replicate the B&O's "Old Maude" (which is the USA's first Mallet type locomotive dating back to 1906). I also have an 0-6-0 and 0-4-0 in both regular and Camelback versions. The Camelback's cabs stand about a foot too tall but are good starting points for modeling different Reading lines locomotives that have Wootten fireboxes. Any of the Mantua steamers are good starting points for kit-bashing. The best part is their bullet proof gearing! Whether open frame motor or caned motor, they will pull with little effort,
• Steve writes: Mantua also made the Dixie Belle old timer 4-6-0, General 4-4-0 (all metal with tender drive), old timer 2-6-0, Belle of 80s (all metal) 4-4-0, and old timer 4-8-0. They also made a Decapod 2-10-0 using a Mikado boiler. Later they made a 4-4-2 including a Camelback version as well as 0-8-0 and 2-8-0 versions. I have successfully kit-bashed the Mikado into a DL&W heavy Mikado by shortening the tender and using Bowser trucks plus additional detail parts. I also made a WM I-2 class heavy 2-10-0 by detailing and kit-bashing the tender from a Bowser long haul tender kit.
• A viewer writes: NWSL now have a gearbox kit for the new style Pacifics.
• Val Nelson writes: I also have a rather extensive parts inventory of Rivarossi and Tyco HO parts. I bought out the entire parts inventory from a hobby shop in Omaha, NE and still have quite a bit of it - literally thousands of parts. Please let me know if I may be of assistance to anyone. I can be contacted via this email or by phone at 402-493-3774.

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Best Source

• For older Mantua steam locomotives, flea markets would be a good source. The going price for a Pacific or Mikado in good shape is around $40 - $50. The newer Mantuas are making starting to make their way into flea markets. Prices are in the $150 range.

Web Sites

• Mantua (domain now for sale)
• NEB&W Guide to Mantua Steam Locomotive Models

MDC (Model Die Casting/Roundhouse)

MDC uses essentially the same boiler for both the Mogul and Consolidation. Their boilers are well cast in a combination of plastic over a metal core. The side rods use a plastic crank pin rather than a screw. Sometimes they come out while operating, but super glue solves this problem. The motor may require slight shimming to achieve proper gear meshing. They have good low speed performance and are very quiet for an open frame motor.

MDC now offers its 2-truck shay "ready to run". This item runs very nicely and has bright led directional lights.

Advantages

• MDC makes just about the only "non-brass" HOn3 steam locomotives.
• The latest MDC kits now have can motors instead of the older open-frame motor.

Disadvantages

• The Shay model requires a great deal of "tweaking" to get it to run well (smoothly). NWSL sells a re-gear kit for the Shay. See RMC Jan & Feb 1991, and MR Aug 1985. I have been told that the NWSL re-gear kit for the HOn3 C-21 is essential.

Other comments

• Bill K. writes: MDC's 0-6-0 was originally released in 1941 (!) and some of the other SP/AT&SF design rod locomotives in the 1950s. The 2-6-2 is a fiction, made to get more milage out of the Santa Fe boiler. Most of them were re-tooled like Mantua engines to convert shells to plastic from all die-cast.
• David Colgan writes: I just purchased another MDC shay. It was a kit that someone built already which ran horrible. I used stock parts from a freinds kit that used NWSL parts in his. I replaced; -The axle gears -The tower gears (drive and idle) -Line-shaft gears (I am using 3 believe it or not) -Paint and almost every detail (I consider the only work not done by me was cutting the parts from the sprue, it was a complete rebuild) The locomotive runs very well now. I am using only kit parts and have the NWSL replacements if needed. I was afraid to take the loco apart to use the NWSL gears because of the time spent on the stock ones. I have installed a snowplow, a "bear trap" spark arrestor from scratch and a wood load with cables for the whistle and bell. She is a very good runner and both my kit-built and RTR will cover 3 feet of track in 1 minute 40 seconds.
• David Colgan writes: I just bought an HO 2 truck shay "Ready to Run" I was satisfied with the performance since I only paid about $65 for it (Coming to find now that this was a steal considering they aren't made at all any more) After using some Labelle, it's a totally new machine. Runs very well. I found that the factory had made improvements in the side drive line and motor and eliminated the need for some of the NWSL upgrades.
• Donald Frigo writes: I have just completed a 2-6-2 loco and it runs great! It does have the newer can motor. Being my first kit loco I'm very happy with it. Follow the directions and it will go together easily and both run and look good.
• John Patton writes: I have but one MDC/Roundhouse kit, the 70 ton 3 Truck Shay. It's complicated to assemble and there are tricks to get it to run smoothly. However, it will work and work well. I have replaced the motor with a Canon flat can motor and will look into the gearing to eliminate the binding on the side gears on the wheels.
• Steve Wysowski writes: I have built six MDC/Roundhouse kits; three 2-8-0s, two 2-6-0, and one 4-4-0. I have re-geared and re-motored all of them. I used standard NWSL gearing kits at 72-1 ratio. I also used Maxon can motors with flywheels, The motors are 1323 and can be purchased from "The Motorman" in Texas. These engines run extremely well. They can go as slowly as scale 1 mph! They all pull 15 cars w/o a problem. They required a great deal of "tinkering" but they run as smoothly as glass.
• Eugen Takacs writes: I have built plenty MDC steam locomotive. My web site has some pictures of them.
• Johannes M. Vogt writes: I just finished assembling a MDC HOn3 inside frame 2-8-0. The motor (open frame) is good quality. However, the rest of the mechanism is practically useless. When assembled as instructed, the locomotive barely moved, and I went on to rebuild the entire mechanism:
  • The teeth of the idler gear sometimes got caught in the large gear that meshes with the worm. I made a new set of brass gears leaving enough clearance to avoid this problem, and also changing the gearing ratio from 48:1 to 73.6:1.
  • The plastic crank pins are too long. The result is that the side rods have too much play, they can tilt sideways and then get jammed. I made shorter steel crank pins, which prevent the side rods from tilting/jamming and also reduce friction.
  • It was impossible to install the main rod and related mechanism. The parts simply didn't fit together. I had to rebuild all of these parts. I drilled out the holes in the cylinders to press in brass bushings (just pieces of brass pipe), in which I now run steel rods.
  Now my locomotive runs very smoothly with impressive low-speed performance. All wheels are nickel plated, so the electrical contact with the rails is reliable.

  The locomotive isn't the greatest puller though, and the fact that the tender was unreasonably heavy didn't exactly help. I machined down the die cast bottom part of the tender to reduce the weight.

  Conclusion: Unless you have a hobby machine shop and you want to rebuild the entire mechanism, consider it a display model.

• A viewer writes: I have built the MDC 2-truck shay and have been very disappointed. The instructions are inadequate, the die cutting is lousy and the "tweaking" is nearly a complete rebuilding. I don't recommend these kits unless you are a proficient kit-basher.
• Someone on rec.model.railroads writes:
  1. The new can motor in the current kits is a Sagami can and is very good. The earlier one was an open frame Sagami, which mine is and I find it more than acceptable. The main problem was after the motor, mostly within the drive train.
  2. Replace all the plastic gears in the gearbox with brass ones from N.W.S.L.
  3. I used both the gears on each truck and haven't had to much of a problem.
  4. I found that I had to wire the trucks together to keep the keeper plates in place as the little plastic tabs were almost useless and broke off after the first attempt at disassembly.
  5. Any good light grease is fine.
  6. I also replaced the M.D.C. universals with standard Athearn ones as I found these to be smoother and helped this loco to run better.
  7. Granted the shay is a difficult project but the effort is worthwhile. Where else could you get a 3-truck shay for approximately 100 dollars. I have built four of these kits and due to practice I am able to turn one out in a few evenings. It just takes patience and a lot of hit and miss assembly for the drive train but it can be accomplished in about 5 hours with satisfactory results. Otherwise I also operate the Santa fe 4-4-2 Atlantic, a very easy kit to build. It is basically screwdriver assembly and then some minor adjusting and greasing. This engine I have run continuously at a local club, doing local runs, for the last 12 years and it must have at least a half million scale miles on it with just regular maintenance. I highly recommend these kits for the novice. They produce a locomotive with staying quality, ease of assembly, and fairly good looks.
• A viewer writes: MDC offers smaller steam locomotives like 2-8-0s, 2-6-0s, 4-4-0s, and Shays. The "side-rod" locomotives are based on SP prototypes, except for the C-21 which is D&RGW.
• A viewer writes: The C-21 boiler can be lowered to prototype height as described in an issue of Model Railroader.
• A viewer writes: Boilers are made of metal.
• A viewer writes: With patience and the easy-to-follow instructions, these kits can be built into nice looking locomotives.
• A viewer writes: References for MDC
  • MDC Shay test, RMC, 84/02, p103
  • Better performance from MDC Shay, MR, 85/08, p84
  • Upgrading the MDC Shay:1, RMC, 91/01, p64
  • Upgrading the MDC Shay:II, RMC, 91/02, p79
• Someone from MDC writes: The manner in which side rods are installed can cause the drivers to wobble. Punched brass side rods have a burr around the outer edge on one side while the opposite side (face) has no burr. The burr needs to be cleaned off. After cleaning you will still be able to tell which side originally had the burr. Install the side rods with burr-side inward (toward drivers) on one side of engine and with burr-side outward (away from drivers) on the opposite side of the engine. This will ensure that the rod holes will match perfectly on both sides of the locomotive. Now test roll without motor and step gear. Check for binding in the mechanism or wobble, then add motor and re-check under power. A wobble can be introduced by gears being too eccentric or rods/cross-heads fouling.

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Best Source

• Your best bet is probably mail order. I've seen MDC kits available from Standard Hobby Supply. Prices vary from $55 to $70.

MTH

• NYC L3/L4 4-8-2 Mohawk
• SP GS4/GS6 4-8-4 Northern
• Erie 2-8-8-8-2 Triplex
• PRR K4s 4-6-2 Pacific

Other comments

• Art Boardman writes: I have (5) MTH HO locomotives and love every one of them! The DCS system which I have is so much easier and better to use with more features than DCC. I also am a member of a club layout which of course is DCC, and I run my MTH locos there as well as on my DCS layout at home. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows of a club layout running on DCS, if there are any. My e-mail address is.... a.boardman@comcast.net
• JayD writes: I purchased am MTH Mohawk and was very impressed by the sound and smoke, unfortunately the one I got had a bad hum in the sound system and the gears were grinding in it. I suspect that the drive wheel springs were not installed correctly but found that one of the screws to the plate holding in the drivewheel was stripped and I could not open up the engine to check them, of course for the 400+ price tag I felt noone should have to fix a new engine. I returned it for a new one, my local hobby shops suspects the one I recieved with the grinding noise may have been a return that was accidently resold by his distributor. Besides this set back, my Mohawk is the centerpiece of my layout and is a joy to operate.
• John Mock writes: The MTH steamers are the best engines I've ever owned. The Challenger in particular is a tremendous value in bang for the buck. The sounds are great, and the deep UP steamboat whistle is right-on. I disagree with Victor on one point: All roadnames offered for the GS-4 and GS-6 are correct in that Western Pacific actually owned them, and the actual surviving Daylight for a time was temporarily painted in BNSF markings.
• Damon Hartley writes: Wow these engines are great. I got tired of screwing around with DCC issues and went to all DCS engines. If you want to RUN trains and not have to figure out what happened to the DCC every time you turn it on then MTH is for you. I simply turn on the DCS system and all engines are ready to go right now. I also like the fact that the controller has feedback to let you know where a loose connector or dirty track is. The sounds on the MTH engines are excellent. I stood right next to the track as the real Daylight zipped past me at track speed and as my HO daylight zipps past it sounds just like the real thing. Worth every penny.
• Richard Chilton writes: I own Five MTH HO engines now and I am very impressed with the lighting features, sound and performance. Their Quality control is the best I have seen in the industry which underscores their long time to market new products compared to BLI for example (in my experience). I fully agree with David and Victor's coments about MTH. They truly are a joy to watch and they are very at home in a display case as well. I have a few of the AC70ACE diesels thst took a few months to get but were well worth the wait. These have electric couplers that are nice but have mixed reviews from those that have used them, however MTH includes a pair of Kadee couplers with instructions so you can repace the electrics if you wish. I also agree with Nick that they are worth every penny.
• David W Hurlburt writes: I have (2) MTH HO locomotives a NYC 2-8-2 light Mikado and a NYC 2-6-4 Dryfus Hudson and I have serveal other steam and transistion engine from various mfg. But the two MTH engines are my favorites...The syn. smoke and digital sound is a "show stopper" at the model railroad club when I run my engines and make a couple of converts to MTH...The rear LED taillights on the Mikado Tender and the running lights that showcase the Hudson's drivers get the most comments.
• Victor Pinamonti writes: I own quite a few MTH HO locomotives now and have been very impressed with them. They do tend to do the IHC thing where they make one prototype model and put road names on it without localizing it for that railroad (Triplex and GS-6 are examples) but all are very good runners under DCC.
• Bob Rodriguez writes: I have the K4 which runs smoothly and the sound and smoke chuff sounds and looks great since everything is in sync. That said I bought the Erie triplex I really have nothing bad to say about these models except that I use a MRC power pack so I do not get all of the sounds that are available.
• Nick writes: I just bought an MTH Western Pacific 4-8-4 and love it ! It's very smooth, sounds great and smokes a lot more than the earlier K-4 I had. The LED lights make it very interesting to watch and it's detail is outstanding. It is definetly worth the money.

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• MTH HO Trains

Rivarossi

Rivarossi models are sold "ready-to-run". Parts can be expensive and difficult to find. Back in the 1990s, the best supplier of Rivarossi parts was Model Railcraft Supply Depot. However, in 1996 MRSD sold its Rivarossi Parts business to Golf Manor Hobbies in Cincinnati, Ohio (513) 351-3849. In the 2000s, Golf Manor went out of business. In 2009 many Rivarossi parts have been seen being sold on eBay.

In 2002, Rivarossi released a new model -- a Chesapeake & Ohio Allegheny (2-6-6-6)! Rivarossi always had a tendency to concentrate on "big steam" and this is one more example. The list price is currently in the range of $300 - $400. The Allegheny comes without traction tires (which are commonly found on all other locomotives from Rivarossi). However, they can purchased as an option.

1969 Big Boy Schematics

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Advantages

• Rivarossi's biggest asset is that they produce the best selection of famous and well known U.S. steam locomotives you will find. Models range from UPs famous Big Boys and FEF-3s to SPs famous Cab Forwards to N&Ws class Y-6 2-8-8-2s, and many more.
• Although bodies are made of plastic and many details are cast or molded into the body, they are good looking locomotives.
• From wheel diameter to overall length, the proportions of these models are very close to scale.

Disadvantages

• The biggest drawback to these models is that they are expensive. List price for a Big Boy is somewhere between $220 - $250.
• Their older 3-pole motors give them poor slow speed performance. NOTE: The newer Rivarossi locomotives have had their drive trains (and motors) completely re-designed. I have not seen the new locomotives so the slow speed performance problems may no longer exist.
• Older Rivarossi locomotives used a motor that could be noisy.

Other comments

• Rivarossi Fan writes: The late '90s Pacifics do have a drive train problem and is just as Rob describes. Apparently, Riv. resorted to a plastic pin to cut costs. It seems to me that the real cure is to push the broken pin out of the idler gear, drill a hole in the chassis side, where the plastic pin was molded, and use a metal rod as a replacement. It's possible that the pin might hold if the fine, if it were glued in the chassis side with CA or epoxy. The gear end would be flared to prevent the gear from falling off, or the fit in chassis might be tight enough to keep the gear in place. I spoke to Hornby USA. He stated there is NO repair network. Yet they are still selling $300 Rivs. Huh? I've written Hornby in England, have not yet received an answer.
• steve writes: I,m an SP fan so a Riv Cab Forward was essential. Had problems with wheel pickups. I pulled the origional springs out of the pickup plungers and replaced them with pairs of Kadee knuckle springs as advised by Golf Manor Hobbies. I fitted phosphur wire pickups and metal axle wheel sets to the tender. The loco has got the "specific" Cab For Tsunami sound decoder in it, and now pulls a good load and sounds the part.A lot of fiddly work, but it's put a good looking loco to good use!
• Ken Benton writes: I just perchased a 464 Hudson Rivarossi for only about $130.00. It runs extremely well and low speeds are unbelievably great! It runs very quiet as well. The only two problems I had were this.... #1. The tender actually came with (get this)a HORN COUPLER! It's a little tricky, but it can be replaced. #2. The engine can not and will not and never will pull a train up a grade of substantual proportion. China forgot to add traction rubber to the drivers.I would have payed any extra amount for their extra home work. This engine is D.C. only and thats the way I like them.I don't know why but I have a very hard time finding the 464 wheel configurations and when I think I have it turns out that they are not in stock. That is another reason I was very pleased to find this model. Ken.
• Barry Reeves writes: I have an old Rivarossi UP Challenger. I have fitten a Sountraxx DCC decoder into the tender and it works well. I very lightly oil the motion and keep the gearboxes well lubricated. She is old and needs care but I am very pleased with it.
• Jon writes: I aquired a Georgia Pacific Corp. Heisler, it's an excellent runner, very strong too.
• D. R. MacDougall writes: My first steamer was the PM Berkshire, back in 1970, I still have it. Recently I found another at a swap-meet for $5 brought it home to find out the can opener motor was toast, no problem, a local surplus store blew out a bunch of Fulhauber motors, now it's one of my quietest runners. There is also ample room inside the Rivarossi Big Boy for 2 motors, allowing the two sets of drivers to change sync or slip independently. I had to cut down the internal weights to fit them but it was really worth the effort. I'm now adding a speaker/decoder in the smokebox. I also have a Y6b in the works but fitting two 17mm diameter motors is a bit more challenging, although it will permit a detailed cab.
• Mark Weber writes: I am new to Rivarossi and I picked a used Rivarossi 0-8-0 at a show and I am vey happy with it and now I have a 4-6-2 that I got as a parts loco witch is in the works being restored by a good freind and I hope to have this one up and running soon
• Tom White writes: My very first mallet was the Rivarossi "USRA" 2-8-8-2, which I bought in 1964 or so. It had the tender pickup and the 'pizza-cutter' flanges, and ran extremely well for me for quite a few years. I did a lot of kit-bashing on it, and I liked it a lot. I didn't buy another Rivarossi loco until they came out with their first run of the C&O Allegheny (a locomotive I had really no use for on my MR, save that the loco itself has always fascinated me). The first run came with traction tires, which gave it a TREMENDUOUS pulling power on my MR. The traction tires promptly gave out (as traction tires do, LOL!) but even that did not affect its tremenduous pulling power. As far as detail, it is still the most exqusitely detailed plastic locomotive I have on my roster. It's just INCREDIBLY beautiful to watch. Performance is very smooth through all of the speed ranges, and it's given me no mechanical problems whatsoever. For my money, it's the best plastic steamer ever produced. Tom
• Poop Dick writes: I just bought a Rivarossi 0-8-0 shifter for 25$ at my local hobby shop. What a Steal! its over 40 years old easily since it has the original AHM box. The previous owner even installed kadees. Excellent runner even with the noisy 3 pole motor.
• Larry Hampton writes: I own several Rivarossi steam locomotives. They are the early production models. The were cheap to buy a long time ago. They look nice and run great. Once on a club layout I ran my UP BIG Boy with over 30 cars and the engine quit running. Sometimes at the Timonium Train Show the dealers there sell Rivarossi parts. There they also sell a lot of Rivarossi trains too. They have 600 dealers there on a regular basis in all scales.
• Gerry in Canada writes: I have two Rivarossi Alleghenys bought within the past year and both have the same problem. On both locomotives the wires from the locomotive to the tender seem to be too thin and break from fatigue. One is being held by two wires instead of six or seven and is not running. The other has some copper showing from one wire I am sure it will snap soon. I never undo the connection even when servicing them.
• Ian Tozzi writes: I live in England and have just purchased an older version (1976) Rivarossi UP Big Boy no 4013. Yes the motor is a bit noisy but apart from that it is a fantastic runner even at slow speed. A little bit of extra weight has been added to both the drive assemblies as the second drive axle seems to derail rather easily. I have got a few issues with running it on other model railways (railroads) due to clearances (HO as opposed to 00).
• Robert McNeill writes: I too have several Rivarossi (AHM) engines. The only problem I encountered is some of the 70's era units had press fit metal wheels in a plastic of some type axle which splits under undue stress or from improper greasing or other misuse.... Val Nelson please contact me at the above email.
• Scott K writes: I have a Rivarossi B&O EL5 2-8-8-0 and a B&O 2-10-2 Big Six. The EL5 is from 1996 with a nice can motor and flywheel. Once I cleaned and re-lubricated the gears (essential!) this locomotive absolutely crawls even under heavy load. This is important for realistic operation of this model since EL5s were primarily found on the 2.5% plus grades of B&O's West End literally crawling up those grades pulling drags at only 8-10 MPH with 2 or more EL5's shoving on the rear. There is no room in the boiler for a decoder or speaker so I'll be doing a tender conversion on this one. On the other hand, my Big Six is from the 70's and has a horridly loud and jumpy open frame motor which sticks out of the cab. It has very poor slow speed and pulling performance. This one will need to be re-motored with a can. At the same time, I'll put a DCC and sound system in--there is generous room in the boiler on this model. Both are nicely detailed, even though most details are molded-on. They still look very nice, and both are very close to the B&O prototypes (especially in that the Big Six has the headlight properly located). Also, it is difficult to replace the stock fake knuckle couplers on the front pilots for both of these. I had to carefully but firmly yank out the retaining pin, and then after lots of trial-and-error trimming, I managed to squeeze a long-shank Bachmann EZ-Mate coupler into the slot. They work OK but don't swing side to side very well. I can only front-end couple on a tangent.
• Tuna writes: I have a Rivarossi UP 844. It's a 1997 version and was not DCC ready. I bought it at a train show and added DCC (pain). It been a reliable runner but is now retired to the display case since buying a Genesis 844.
• John Patton writes: My first Rivarossi locomotive was a B&O EL-5 with the Model Expo drive. This was the upgraded drive system from the AHM days. It has great pulling power, weight, and slow speed performance, unlike those from the earlier "AHM" days. I have since bought many Y6bs to make into B&O EL class 2-8-8-0s. I've got two Challengers from the 1970s, three 2-10-2s, two 4-6-2s, two 2-8-4s, one Big Boy, and four Cab Forwards. All these old locomotives will be re-powered with flat can motors from Canon with flywheels where possible. Keeping all the gearboxes lubricated is key on these Italian models.
• ED Robertson writes: I have many older Rivarossi engines and have found them to be the most detailed plastic steam locomotives of their day. Re-motoring is not too difficult and the folks at Northwest Shortline are very helpful. I've heard IHC may still have some parts for these locomotives. The IHC scratch builders bible is also a must. Careful not to over-task the 3 pole motored locos. It may also be desirable to replace the mesh commutator brush with a solid carbon one.
• John Speakman writes: I have four of the 'Red Box' (the Jubilee releases from 1995) steam locomotives - the Big Boy, Challenger, Mallet and Cab-Forward and am extremely happy with them. They all have the upgraded can motor which results in terrific low speed capability and quietness. These locomotives have an honored place in my collection firstly for their performance and quality of detail (even Kato is molding detail parts - have you seen the brake cylinders molded into the truck side frames on the AC4400CW...?), especially given the price of the Trix Big Boy. I'm always on the lookout for more of the newer Rivarossi's. They're well-worth the price! As a side note, I also have one of the older-version Big Boys with the motor in the cab (doesn't run), but as I can't find parts for it I have it on static display on my layout (free-lanced based on a museum theme) as a 'future restoration project'.
• Alex Sheppard writes: I have one of the old Rivarossi Big Boys, with the 3-pole in the cab. Sure, it's noisy. Ok fine, it's not very good at slow running. But it can probably out-pull its newer counterpart! After all, hauling 100 cars is no simple feat in HO scale!
• Robert DeWoody writes: I have the Pere Marquette Berkshire (2-8-4 from the last production run before Rivarossi went under). Except for the fact that it is just their Nickel Plate Berk with PM lettering it is a very nice model. I changed the pilot and removed the NKP number boards and think I have an acceptable PM model. This release has a can motor instead of the old pancake piece of junk the earlier releases had and a traction tire. It out-pulls my P2K Berkshires by a wide margin but you should be careful not to overload it as it will stall instead of spinning it's wheels. It has good low speed performance and I am very happy with it as it cost less than half of the P2K model.
• A viewer writes: I have a Rivarossi 2-8-4, its a beautiful locomotive. The only down side is the motor stalls when going over switches or inclines.
• Gene Gleason writes: I have an H8 with a Tsunami sound chip. It has fantastic sound and performance. I have 10 big engines and this is one of the best runners.
• Steve Pushak writes: I picked up an older model Rivarossi Big Boy used on eBay for a reasonable price. I was disappointed with the slow speed performance and lack of power so I plunked down $80 for a re-motor job using the NWSL 20328-9 5-pole can motor. It now has a lot more power and speed however it draws a lot of current, runs hot and still has very poor slow speed performance. Since I want the pulling power more than speed, I'll have to re-gear as well it looks like. I would recommend re-gearing and adding fly-wheels for better low speed performance. I haven't found any better references on the Internet so I'll provide further comments here if/when I get it running properly.
• Val Nelson writes: I also have a rather extensive parts inventory of Rivarossi and Tyco HO parts. I bought out the entire parts inventory from a hobby shop in Omaha, NE and still have quite a bit of it - literally thousands of parts. Please let me know if I may be of assistance to anyone. I can be contacted via this email or by phone at 402-493-3774.
• Rick Uglum writes: I have one of the new Rivarossi Cab Forwards. This is an outstanding locomotive! I had mine pulling 52 cars weighted to NMRA standards with no problems. It is quiet, smooth, great at low speed operation. My only complaint is that it is labeled as an AC-12, although it is really an AC-11 (based on the number). I would highly recommend this locomotive!
• Warwick Falconer writes: I Recently bought 4 of the new upgraded series of Rivarossi locos, 2 Challengers, a Big Boy and an Allegheny. They are absolutely superb, very fine and extremely accurate in detail and fantastic runners. They are very smooth with low motor noise and excellent low speed performance, plus they can put in a good turn of speed. Slight problem with the front bogie truck of the Allegheny not tracking properly which was easy to rectify, other than that it's a amazing locomotive and well worth the large price tag. There is no comparison between these new Rivarossi models and the older ones - you would think they were from a different manufacturer.
• A viewer writes: New Challenger: Low speed operation is excellent, on a par with the Athearn/Genesis 2-8-2. They will pull a lot of freight cars, at least 40 smooth rollers (eg. Proto 2000). Smooth and quiet, and these models track well. But, the rear trailing truck on the loco is extremely sensitive to spring tension adjustments, and will not track well unless its tuned perfectly.
• A viewer writes: NYC 20th Century and Empire state Hudsons: Good lookers, lousy runners. Poor electrical contact, and very poor low speed operation. Noisy motors and not much pulling power. They stay parked a lot, but track well when they do manage to run.
• A viewer writes: Because of their relatively light weight, Rivarossi locomotives use "traction tires" which could be described as rubber-band tires on some of their drive wheels. These traction tires can make the locomotive wobble.
• A viewer writes: Streamlined Hudsons: I have improved the electrical contact by soldering an additional pickup to the middle axles of the tender. Also I oiled the axle contacts lightly, and this has improved the performance substantially. They now run well and are closer to the performance I expected. Back in the roster.
• A viewer writes: I just received a "re-manufactured" Rivarossi Berkshire from Model Expo - apparently meaning that it was faulty when new so it was returned for factory repairs and testing and then sold again at a discounted price ($125). My expectations were fairly low as Model Expo states that re-manufactured models often have slightly damaged boxes and can be shop soiled. To my pleasant surprise, the model arrived in perfect condition - that to me equals good value at $32 less than retail.

  Performance is good straight from the box. The drive train is quite noisy in reverse having a very audible grinding sound but much quieter going forward. Some good lubrication will probably cure the unwanted noise.

  The only thing I don't particularly like are the traction tires. The model seems heavy enough not to need them and finding replacements is often difficult. Having said that, the Berkshire has tremendous pulling power - easily 50% more power than anything else I've got.

• Rob Seel writes: The New Rivarossi Heavy Pacifics may have a gearbox problem. This happened to me twice -- once with a new locomotive, and again with a new replacement after the same 10 to 12 hours (cumulative) of running time. The 4-6-2 has an idler gear mounted on a pin molded to the side of the gear box. This pin has sheared off, causing the idler gear to move forward and bind the loco to a dead stop. Reversing the power and starting up again causes the loose gear to be thrown to the back of the gearbox, out of the way so the motor can spin freely while the loco stands still. The only remedy I know of is to replace the gearbox. Hopefully NorthWest Short Line come to the rescue.

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• Rivarossi steam locomotive are often found at model railroad flea markets. Big Boys and Cab Forwards in good to excellent conditions can usually be found for around $150. Most others (Y-6, NYC&StL 2-8-4, NYC Hudson) in good to excellent condition are usually around $100.

Web Sites

• Rivarossi
• Model Expo
• Walthers

Trix

Marklin also offers a USRA (New York Central) 2-8-2 "Mikado".

Advantages

Disadvantages

• Expensive

Other comments

• Rodney Diaz writes: Trix US mikados are superb, well detailed smooth and powerful, though there is a slight bit of motor noise. I recently bought a Geman outline loco- surprised by its 'toylike' features; especially for the expense. Europeans still have the awful deep flanges. Diecast shell but poor mouldings, separation marks. Worst of all is a rotten little 'pancake' motor; very noisy. Gears can be seen (I bought it online, so didn't see such shortcomings). Lesson learnt.
• Victor Pinamonti writes: I have owned Trix products for many years, typically European models, but have the Big Boy, GG1, the Mikado, and the US rolling stock. I bought the Mikado and Big Boy early and have changed out the sound schedule for the newer ones that ESU released. They have always been high quality models. I have bought some of the European models in all kinds of condition and have not found one yet that I could not restore to run in perfect operation. The most amazing thing about the Trix is that the Big Boy can run on a fifteen inch radius curve. Nothing less than impressive to us who model US, but an everyday thing for the European who typically has not much room to run a model railroad, where 15 inch curves are the norm. I have not seen a Trix wear out yet, they are pretty tough. The high exchange rate for the Euro has caused me to slow my Trix buying down considerably, but you can find the US models on auction or at train shows for a more reasonable price.
• Tuna writes: I used to 'work' at a model train museum in Guthrie, OK where the center piece layout is a Marklin unit with the German "3-rail" HO set up. From opening to closing, I ran a UP Big Boy pulling 30-40 cars continuously 5-6 hours at a time. It never failed. I think that is amazing. The Marklin stuff is very well made and very pricy.
• John Matitz writes: I purchased the trix 2-8-2 (Light Mikado w/sound) at close-out pricing in Spring of 2007. The detail of the engine & tender is excellent. When in operation, club members have inquired if the engine was brass... very impressive. Sound is good, and very smooth running. I'm experiencing shorts with the tender truck pick-ups while going over some of our clubs switches, which I have yet to correct. Pulling power is not that good when climbing our clubs steeper grades. The engine will pull only 12 to 15 freight cars (including caboose) through these areas depending on the cars rolling ability. I'm looking to changeout a pair of the 63" drivers and introduce Marklin wheel sets with traction tires. I'm confident this will improve the pulling power.
• Dave King writes: I picked up a 4-8-8-4 big boy about a week ago and so far I have had no problems with it. Since i started building train platforms I've started to lean toward larger engines. I own another big boy but its made by Rivarossi and it is starting to ware out its pulling strength. The only complaint I have is that it was a little pricey. Other than that it runs beautifully. Pulling power is amazing I put on traction tires and it pulls 300 cars on my level track. I will continue to purchase from trix from here on out.
• Jake Fischer writes: I just purchased the trix 2-8-2 light mikado with sound. This is the most smoothest running locomotive I own. The sound is the best part of the product, the whistle is very realistic. It has a lack of traction, and only could pull 20 cars plus caboose up a 1.5 percent grade, therefor not intended for heavy duty. This would fit great for local runs or heavy switching. Overall well detailed and great engine!
• Jeff McCrea writes: I've owned my Big Boy for about a year now and it's been a love hate relationship. I agree with the other comments on the detail and quality. This engines is amazing looking and does run very smoothly. However it does, at least for me have a few draw backs:
  1. DCC operation, part of this is probably our clubs older NCE setup but this engine is very picky when it comes to power. It definitely found any and all weak spots on our layout. It was also very difficult to fine tune, I can't even turn off the directional lights.
  2. Rear coupler, the center spring design on the tender actually pulls the coupler down. The first car's coupler would slip out over the top of the tender coupler. I switched to a #17 Kadee (shorter shank) from the original #18. I still had to bend the 17 up, seems to have helped.
  3. Pulling power, I've read numerous articles claiming this engine pulled over 100 cars. Which I'm sure it did, "on level track". Well our club is anything but, anymore than 10 cars it would begin to slip badly. I initially tried adding weight which only marginally helped. The European version came equipped with traction tires. I found a distributor through whom I could order parts and ordered a set of stock replacement wheels and two sets of traction tire wheels. I'd intended to groove the wheels (my buddy has a machine shop) using the European wheels as a guide. When they arrived I discovered the only difference with the European wheels was the flange was only slightly bigger than the RP25 wheels. I went ahead and installed these wheels. The difference was dramatic. I pulled 65 properly weighted cars through our entire layout to include a helix from hell without a hitch. I'll bet my engine will pull over 200 cars on level track. Now our club layout is all code 100 track. If you're running anything less I think you'll have problems with these wheels. I hope this helps anyone having pulling problems with this engine.
• Jim Thomas writes: I have a hobby shop in kokomo, Indiana and am a modeler myself. I have sold over 20 trix big boys and have never heard a complaint. They are fabulous! They are die cast and weigh more than any plastic or brass model I own. According to the literature from Trix, they will take a 14 and 3/8's inch radius curve! It easily went around an 18" radius curve on my shop layout. One customer says his pulls 120 Athearn cars on level track. The first version was DCC ready, but the current model comes with a decoder and sound factory installed.
• Warwick Falconer writes: I recently bought a Trix Big Boy and it is the most amazing piece of RTR model railroading equipment I have ever seen. The model runs very and I mean very smooth and extremely quiet - hardly any motor noise at all. It has excellent low speed performance as well as being the fastest and by far the strongest loco I own. The detailing is out of this world - get a picture of the prototype and try and find a missing part, it's almost impossible!! As Trix/Marklin said most of the model is metal and there are very few plastic parts, this a major advantage as it is fairly robust when compared to highly detailed plastic locos such as the P2K 2-8-8-2s. One draw back - this engine is too nice to use for fear of wear and tear. Well Done Trix on an awesome model of an awesome engine.

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• Trix Trains

Brass

Advantages

• In general, brass locomotives can have the best detail work. But be careful. The manufactures don't always get it right. For example, I've seen brass models with incorrect marker lights.
• Usually, brass models are an accurate representation of the prototype.

Disadvantages

• Obviously, brass models are expensive. You get what you pay for. Brass models also hold their value. This is particularly true of the more expensive brass.
• A common misconception is that all brass locomotives are good runners. This is not the case. Many older brass models use open-frame motors and poor gearing. Newer models will often have can motors and improved gearing. If you plan on running the model, it is important to see it run before you buy it.

Other comments

• Brass Fan writes: Detailing on brass locomotives can be exquisite, and there are some of the oldest models were pretty plain, but cheaper. Newer, less expensive model were imported by AHM's HCB(HIGH CLASS BRASS) series. AHM didn't pull any punches when describing how great these were. I like articulateds, but many of the older engines were particlularly difficult to get running right. KMT transmissions were a fine example of high amp, coffee grinders. Before OMI gave up steamers, they were a safe bet for good quality operation. Nowadays, after you have reserved a brass engine, the wait can easily be in YEARS.
• Victor Pinamonti writes: Good comments all around - Brass models show a commitment to the hobby. Overall they tend to cost more, but typically they are made to be anywhere from fair to exact models of the real thing. If you need painting practice brass is a good choice since brass is easy to strip versus plastic, a cheap brass shell is a great way to perfect your painting skills. Operationally I have not run into very many brass models that can't be made DCC operational. However older models require electical pickups and new motors to effectively convert them. The newest Brass is very operationally friendly and the best in detail however are the most expensive. One thing is for sure there are less brass models being made today due to the high quality of plastic and die cast models being produced that fill the product gaps that only Brass used to fill in the past. Brass Hybrids are another thing to consider that are new to the market.
• andrew writes: I LOVE BRASS I am only 11 years old and I own seven brass engines and one engine pulls every single solitary car on my layout they are very fast very powerful the only thing they aren't is fussy but then again all of my brass engines were my grandpa's. When I tell people I run brass they say wow and when any of my locomotives show up at the railroad club they always turn heads. My engines are awesome world renound manufacturers like Key limited Challenger and Sunset. So if you want engines that are all around awesome brass is the way to go.
• Tom White writes: I agree wholeheartedly on the plusses and minuses of owning brass locomotives. Since the two railroads I primarily model (Rio Grande/Southern Pacific) are mainly ONLY available in brass, acquiring a working steam roster may involve what we brass owners refer to as 'tinkering'. Sometimes, a LOT of 'tinkering'. However, brass is generally very forgiving to work with, and adjusting brass mechanisms is relatively simple. Removing several screws lifts off the entire boiler mechanism, and you are faced with the motor, flywheel (if any), shaft and gearbox. From there on, it's relatively simple to 'fix' whatever problems are occuring in the running mechanism. Many brass locos also require re-weighting and balancing in order to get the maximum running capabilities out of the engine. Again, this is a relatively simple--if often time-consuming--process. However, at least IMO, once you get a smooth, responsive running brass locomotive running on your layout, there's a great satisfaction in it. Brass is bult to LAST! Many of my brass locos are over 40 years old, and they are running very nicely, thank you. One has two choices with brass--put them in a case and admire them for their exquisite detail, or put them on your layout and run them, THEN admire them not only for their exquisite detail, but also their ability to do what I firmly believe they're meant to do--haul trains. And this might come as a surprise--there are many brass locomotives out there that actually haul as many cars as their prototypes. I know. I've got quite a few. Tom
• A viewer writes: Often, buying a brass model may be the only way to get a model of a specific prototype.

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• Although you can find brass models at flea markets, you can't always test run them there. I would suggest that you find a serious hobby shop that sells consignment brass. This way, you will have a selection to choose from and will be able to test run the model too. It is also possible to make offers on a given locomotive.

Web Sites

• Caboose Hobbies
• Uncle Dave's
• BPL Brassworks
• Dan's Train Depot -- Piermont Division
• Mitchell's
• North End Train Center
• Brass Locomotive Company
• Dean's Trains: Dealer in HO Brass